I've used Paul's kit to restore the rear main seal, used the below described
technique to center the timing cover, and the result is that the bottom of
my sprite is DRY. I park in the driveway of a friend's new home and don't
worry about leaving an oil puddle. My normal parking place at work has NO
oil drips at all.(just a major dried-out mess from last year when I had a
bad rear seal)
As for the oil pan, I didn't chamfer the old holes in the block, but with
the thick gasket and the double coat of Form-a-gasket, it has never leaked a
bit. I just tighten the bolts till the sealer oozes out nicely to the edge.
Be sure to cut the cork front and rear pan seals to the suggested over-long
length so that they compress the way they should.
I do lose a tiny amount of oil when I'm flogging it as I have pulled the
steel wool from the timing chain cover cannister and the road tube that
vents it will blow a mist of fine droplets that eventually dirty up the
engine compartment. Can't be much though as I've only added one quart since
January when I finished the rebuild.
Regards,
Glen Byrns
'59 bugeye
'59 Morris Traveller (Winifred)
> Paul:
> Thanks for this very basic and yet so essential piece of "wrenching"
advice.
> I have NEVER thought to center the timing chain cover! No wonder mine
> always leak around the seal!
> --JohnD
> =============
>
> The centering is easy. Start a few bolts in the timing cover less than
> finger tight, then slip the crank pulley on and tighten a few bolts with
> light torque. Take off the pulley and do the rest of the bolts.
>
> Paul A
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