OK youse guys...
I've got to lodge a protest here...
Many of you guys that bitch to high heaven about all the incorrect parts
from the usual suppliers are the same ones advocating what amounts to f'd up
incorrect repairs. When you guys weld, pop rivet, or fiberglass stops signs
in as floors on Spridgets, you haven't "saved" them, you've just made their
deaths a lingering one. To ever make it right will take twice as much work.
The correct floor panels are available, not very expensive, and often would
be far easier than the FUBAR repairs you're "doin' on the cheap". Consider
it a good opportunity to buy that 110 mig you've always wanted. Take a night
class and learn how to weld. Pay someone to do it right... but quit messin'
up these great little cars under the guise of repair.
(besides the aesthetic & monetary value issues, there are structural
integrity issues to consider as well...)
Make no mistake... I'm no concours dude by any means. But, there's only one
"right" way to do rust repair. Anything less than that is a ham handed hack
job.
WST
-----Original Message-----
From owner-spridgets at autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kevin Valentine
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 7:51 PM
To: Josh
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: footwell floor replacement help
Josh,
Weld a steel brace (strap) under each side.
Kevin V.
Josh wrote:
>I need some advice on the front footwell area. I cut out the old floor
(what was left) and made new panels from 20 ga steel. I welded these in
tonite, but I clearly should have used thicker sheet metal. THe problem is
that the center area will "depress or flex" however you define it, a bit.
This is disappointing, I spent forever cutting these!
>
>Options:
>
>1 Cut out the "new" floor, get thicker steel re-do with 16 ga.
>2 Cut out new floor fire up VIsa, get the full floor panels and just cut
off the footwell part
>3 Leave the new panels, skim coat the whole footwell floor with west
systems epoxy to stiffen
>4 Forget about it put floor mat down
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