In the for what it's worth department.
I regularly haul an enclosed 6x12 Haulmark type trailer between Cleveland and
Detroit for work, (maybe 25,000 miles on current trailer over the past 2
years total) and I haul my LBC's etc. on an open 6x12 trailer (maybe 10,000
miles over the past 5 years total) I used to haul with a Chevy Astro Van and
now use a Dodge Ram Van 1500.
Things I've leaned for safe trailer travel;
First and MOST important, get a DUAL AXLE trailer with brakes. Pulling a 600
lb SINGLE axle trailer with a 1300 lb. spridget on it down the freeway at
70-85 mph (I travel at these speeds and bet you do too.) without brakes just
because the law allows you to do so is just insanity. If you have a blowout,
you are VERY lucky if you don't flip the trailer and destroy your cargo/lbc in
the process. Your auto/truck stopping power is less than half of what you
normally have, and even if you're fortunate enough NOT to flip it you
generally destroy the blowout side of the trailer as the wheel hits the ground
and the tire takes out your fender and your fender takes out everything else
within 3 feet or so. I've seen this, believe me, I'm not exaggerating. Very
dangerous.
Dual axles add maybe $800. to the cost and return about $500. on resale,
electric brakes are only about $80. new and another $80. or so for
installation. Electric trailer brakes provide I'd guess 75% of the stopping
power (at least the way I use them) and save me from having to replace my
front auto brakes prematurely. Plus, ever tow in the winter, hit some ice and
your trailer jackknifes? The ONLY way to prevent to regain control is apply
trailer brakes (small lever on all electric controllers, I have mine mounted
on the lower dash near my right knee so I can reach down and activate it
easily) This gives you a chance to straighten up. Even if you CAN'T straighten
up you can bring your speed down much faster. And every second counts in those
situations. I've been there, ask off list if you want to know more.
That potential blowout is much less devastating with dual axles, the
tires/wheels are usually heavier than single axle trailers, I've even driven
40-50 miles with one flat, no problem at all.
Next, load correctly, always load the heavy end (engine end) forward of the
axles. A properly loaded trailer does NOT sway, at all. Zip, nada. My dune
buggy gets loaded backwards, spridget forwards, get it? A bit of excess
tongue weight is far better that a tail heavy trailer.
I love tailgaters when I tow, they tailgate, I steer left/right/left/right the
trailer wags it's tail like crazy. The tailgater backs off like right now. and
my trailers recover to straight ahead travel believe me, immediately. because
of proper loading. Good fun that I arguably don't consider dangerous on my
part.
Also, make sure your vehicle is up to the task. You really can't tow much with
a front wheel drive vehicle without taking out your transmission is short
order. Your rear wheel drive vehicle should have a 2" receiver, not one of
those little tiny 1" ones. My trailers also use 2 & 5/16" balls on their
inserts and the trailer/vehicle orientation is very close to level. The
inserts come straight or offset depending on what you need, measure and get
the right one. They're only about $20. The rear wheel drive Astro Van even
with it's big "6" struggled with my enclosed trailer, My new van is a V8 and
handles the task effortlessly.
Tie downs need to be heavy duty with the LARGE ratchets. I you haven't paid
$15/$20. or so for each one they're not heavy enough. I've seen guys haul
motorcycles with those nylon/ratchet straps that come from discount stores for
a couple of bucks each. The ratchets slip and the nylon looses it's stitching,
the bike falls over and you're very unhappy, Spend some money on straps,
replace the nylon after 5 years or so and replace the ratchets if they get
bent.
You really need to spend some time setting up your trailer for a tiedown at
each corner for ease of use. A lot of racers use the "over the tire" straps
in the front, I like to use short padded straps with heavy D links at the
ends, I put 'em thru a wheel and connect the ratchet/strap to it, nailing down
the wheels to the trailer. Cross your straps in the front and cross them in
the rear to keep the car from slipping around. Tighten things securely and
take the time to check thing once or twice early in the trip.
Make sure your safety chains are crossed and not dragging on the ground, make
sure you HAVE safety chains. Make sure at least most of your lights work. No
lights? $50/$75. to have someone do the wiring for you if you can't or don't
want to do it yourself. It's a pain, have a pro do it. but lights go a LONG
way to keep you safe.
Towing can kill you, use common sense, don't cut corners and set it all up
properly and you too can tow with that relaxed attitude that Chuck spoke of.
Like the MG guys say, Safety Fast.
George Procyshyn
'58 AN5 etc.
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