Kendel,
Firstly, the pump should NOT continue fast ticking. If it does, it
indicates a faulty pump, possibly a split diagfram, or that it is drawing in
air on the length of pipe from tank to pump.
A good conddition pump will tick rapidly for about 10 seconds and the stop,
or at least go to a very slow tick.
If the car drives OK for a couple of miles and then suffers fuel starvation
check that the air vent on the filler cap is not clogged. Try driving a bit
with the filler cap removed.
Other possibility is a clogged fuel line pick up filter inside the tank.
Try blowing air back into the tank from the pump feed line.
And, you have got the in and the out fuel lines the right way round on the
pump I presume?
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From "Kendel McCarley" <kmmccarley at earthlink.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 1:34 AM
Subject: Help - Anemic fuel pumps
> All,
>
> I've been messing with this for weeks now and can't get a reliably
> running '72 Midget. I've been having problems with it starving for fuel
> and thought I'd fixed it by replacing a 3/8" piece of fuel line from the
> pickup with a piece of 1/4" line. Now, I still starve for fuel with the
> same symptoms as before EXCEPT now the fuel pump comes to a slow tick or
> halt instead of ticking like crazy. I've pulled the line off the outlet
> of the pump to make sure there was nothing plugged up the line. I've
> hooked up an inlet line to a gas can to make sure there wasn't a tank
> problem. I've bypassed the ground AND positive wires with another
> inline, hardwired wire for each (ground to chassis, positive snaked up
> directly to the battery). I've swapped pumps with my MGB. I've pulled
> the pumps out of the car and tested them on a spare battery where they
> tick like mad. The problem gets worse the more I drive the car (first
> five miles before it quits, then two, then one, then a half... etc.).
>
> No, I haven't tested voltage coming back yet (or at the battery). The
> car still cranks fine. Plenty of spark. Lights are bright.
>
> Other clues.... symptoms appeared after the engine was pulled, rebuilt,
> and replaced a couple of months ago. Might get two hundred miles.
> Might not get two miles afterwards.
>
> Also, with either of the positive wires hooked up it'd tick. With both
> the original and my hardwire directly to the battery wire hooked up,
> it'd tick faster, but still not fast enough to move gas (I could switch
> the ignition on and off to hear the difference).
>
> One wire (yellow with black stripe) was hanging loose under the hood and
> looked like it needed to be plugged into the coil (sorta bent towards
> it). I hooked it on without any ill effects, but still no joy.
>
> Is there somewhere on the car I need to check to see if the circuit is
> broken?
>
> - Kendel
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