And when working on WST's motor one weekend in the grass at some hillbilly
track in the Midwest, getting past the bolt-on seal housing to access the
rear plate and rear core plug was a PITA, and added at least 1/2 an hour to
the process. Paul's kit gets my vote as it wouldn't need to be touched
again if you need to do other service work.
Quite honestly, there's no guarantee that the crankshaft flywheel
flange is perfectly round, yet that is what the "other" kit relies on for
the sealing surface. A seal of the roughly 3-1/4" diameter should be +/-
.003". Run-out at 4500 RPM should be less than .010" with the number
allowed being less, as RPMs increase. Maximum shaft to bore misalignment
should be less than .010" at 3600 RPM. (The kit requires you to bolt on the
housing, or bore, in 2 pieces.) Shaft finish should be, well, better
than that required to align the flywheel. "The new oil seal will run on
the outer horizontal edge of the flywheel mounting flange on the crank.
This will need t (sic) be checked for damage and carefully polished smooth
with wire wool or fine emery." (MM)
In both options, Paul's and the other, they state that the success
of the fix relies heavily on ensuring adequate evacuating of any crankcase
pressure using manifold vacuum. That, in the end, may be the single most
effective thing you can do.
IMHO
Peter C
=====
At 07:54 AM 12/11/2003, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote:
>I've used both. Both were installed on race motors. The Paul A kit motor
>ended up being the driest rebuild I've ever had on an A series.(but, to be
>fair, you can't compare one motor to the next).
>
>Paul's kit works well, requires a little overnight work before
>reinstallation.
>
>The other style kits available thru Mini Mania , etc. seem to be good in
>theory, but I found the casting quality of the housing required some
>hillbilly machining" (belt sander) to insure a good fit. After that,it works
>fine.
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