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Re: Block Sanding... and Filling?

To: "John D'Agostino" <john.dagostino@comcast.net>, Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Block Sanding... and Filling?
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:11:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Well, I actually have three cars to paint; a 70 MGB GT, this 77 Midget, and a 
94 Grand Cherokee (where I tangled with a drunk college kid on the way home 
last Fall and his insurance company declared my vehicle a total).  In for a 
penny, in for a pound I guess.

So, I've been working out how to build my paint booth using Harbor Freight 
tarps stretched over a framed in structure.  However, I haven't been able to 
find a reasonably priced forced air respirator.  Any hints on where to locate 
one?

Thanks for the responses.


-----Original Message-----
From John D'Agostino <john.dagostino at comcast.net>
Sent: Jan 15, 2004 7:10 PM
To: Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Block Sanding... and Filling?

Hi Kendal.
Filling low spots depends on a few things. Are you sanding a primed fender
or a painted one?
Generally speaking if it's paint, and you do not plan on stripping it,  I
would sand with 180 grit first to get good tooth for the primer. Any dents
or dings filled with a good filler like Evercoat then blocked with 180
again. A 2 inch dent 1/8 inch deep will require filling out at least an inch
from the dents edge. Mix in small batches on a real mixing board and use a
wide spreader. One pass over the dent, let it cure, fill again if still low.
Once it starts to harden stop! Buy a quart of acetone and clean your tools
and mixing board between batches to prevent dried filler from ruining your
work. When dents are filled, prime with epoxy if wanted, then a good
urethane surfacer, several coats, block with 320, fog a little spray can
black primer on it and the low spots will show up when sanded. Any small
waves at this point should be able to be taken out with just primer, if not
use a glazing putty which is smooth like toothpaste for slight surface
defects. For a real flat surface I will tint the next couple of coats of
primer with the car color then block again with 600, any waves will show up
easily. More blocking and priming with 600 will leave an extremely flat
surface ready for paint.

This is a very brief description of prepping for paint. You want to use good
urethane products all catalyzed filler, not lacquer. You will need a
supplied air respirator however as isocyanates are bad. There are some iso
free primers on the market which might be worth a try.

Good luck,
John






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