> I took one look at the clips that came with the
> new cylinders and knew they would be a pain to install, so I tossed them.
Next time just send the clips to me, I would like a nice supply on hand
because they do break occasionally. Someday you will wish you had done it
right when the concours judges start looking at your wheel cylinders <BG>
It really isn't that hard to do, although it is
hard to describe.
Step 1: Remove bleeder.
Step 2: Clamp a pair of Visegrips(tm) onto the axle flange so that the top
of the upper jaw firmly holds the wheel cylinder in place. Kinda obvious
once you have seen it.
Step 3: Slip one front tooth and the back tooth into place with the other
front tooth of the circlip resting on top of the fitting.
Step 4: Using that large Craftsman screwdriver that has been overdue for a
free replacement for a long time because you keep using it for things like
this and are slightly ashamed to show it to the good folks at Sears, pry the
third tooth into place OVER the top into the groove.
Step 5: Put the bleeder back.
Step 6: Remove the Visegrips(tm) and wonder why so many of the listers told
you to throw away the circlip and use a wimpy clip that you wouldn't trust
to hold your own shoes on, let alone to save your life when you need your
brake shoes to work.
I also have started removing the roll-pin from the back of the cylinder and
tapping the hole with 10-32 threads and putting a bolt through the backing
plate into it. Makes me feel better and hopefully will increase the life
expectancy of the rubber boots on the slave cylinders that seem to keep
getting cut by the axle flange. The Concours police won't like it though ...
David Lieb
1972 Midget
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