How about that...combination of items.
Good...that's that....onward and upward.
Re-installing the filter elements should richen the mixture very slightly,
assuming
(ass-u-me) the filters are reasonably
"clean" (unclogged). So maybe it's time to
renew the elements or clean 'em up, whichever applies.
Most users will set up the carbs to run a
tiny bit on the rich side with the filters off.
Addition of the filters therefore assures
the carbs will run on the "safe" or rich
(cool) side.
Another way to do this is to set the carbs
up for maximum rpm at the given idle
setting, then reinstall the filters. Here again, you should end up the
(slightly)
rich side.
Variable choke carbs are excellent for the
street as "torque producers" over "open"
choke carbs., ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL.
Timster....make friends with your SU's...
they are not your enemy. Quite the other
way around as long as you educate yourself
on their operation.
SU's are probably one of the best all around street carbs ever produced and
are by design very user friendly. Many
times they are blamed for ignition or
engine mechanical faults....which is most
likely why the carbs are the last item in
the major tune-up procedure.
The carbs cannot be accurately set to the
specific engine if all else is not up to spec.
One of the last things one does before
setting the carbs is a spray down of the
entire induction system to ASSURE no
vacuum leaks....and that includes the
carb body and that area wherein the
carb spindles fit within the carb body.
A portable tach and airflow device (Unisyn
or whatever) are valuable helpmates in
multiple SU carb tuning.
And remember, once you get the mixture
right on one, and do the other, you've got
to recheck the mix on the first one 'cause
they're "interdependant" and connected
by a balance tube.
Once you get used to the "procedure" as
outlined in the various tuning manuals, it
becomes a snap, really, as long as you have
the proper tools, know how to use them and what to look for as to "correct"
settings.
Cap'n Bob
'60 Frog
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