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Re: Questions about engine rebuild

To: "de Brebisson, Cyrille (Calculator Division)" <cyrille@hp.com>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Questions about engine rebuild
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 13:03:17 -0600
Cc: spridgets-owner@autox.team.net
References: <E4A374257A3CD1438C6EAE5FCD9A1EF5FA109C@idbexc02.americas.cpqcorp.net>
On Mon, 4 Apr 2005 11:13:20 -0600, de Brebisson, Cyrille (Calculator 
Division) wrote
> Hello,
> 
> Well, I am now contemplating an engine rebuild...
> Before I start pulling things out, I have some questions as I have hear
> verry different opinions around me... I am now asking the experts 
> (yes, it's YOU that I am talking about :-)
> 
> I have my 1500 cc that I need to at least partially rebuild due to blow
> by problems and general tear and age... I am looking at a basic and
> cheap rebuild, not a pump it up for power one...
> 
> I know that I will change the following:
> - seals
> - timing chain (and related)
> - bearing (engine, thrust)
> - bearing, possibly connecting rods (any comment on that?)

I'm not sure what you mean on this, of course you'll replace the con rod 
bearings along with the main bearings and thrust washers, those are the ones 
that take the most abuse in a 1500.  As to replacing the con rods, that is 
something to have the machine shop look at.

> - piston ring or all piston depending on engine bore needs
>   Question: can I just dump in 9:1 compression pistons to replace my 
> low compression pistons? 

Yes, you can, but be aware that you'll be having to consider changing 
timing , altering the advance, and other head work to avoid the greater 
potential for preignition.

> - head studs - pushrod and trapets 
> (depending) - valves and associated hardware (depending)
> 
> Now, I also know that I will need to have a machine chop involved 
> for: - cylinders honing or re-boring - valve job (removing old 
> guides, placing the new ones). - possibly flatten the head and block

Machine shop work:
Re-boring = yes if needed.
Honing = this is one of the easiest thigns to do yourself.
Valve Job = you may be looking at having new valve seats installed as well.

> 
> I am planning to do the balancing myself as it does not look too
> complicated...

Don't kid yourself.  It isn't complicated in principle, but it takes some 
experience and regular practice to do it well.  In my opinion, it's worth 
having the shop do it.

> 
> But I have had peoples telling me that I also need to:
> - magnaflux all the parts (why? If my core or my heads are bad, I can
> not afford to replace them anyway...)

...and you can afford to sink the money into the engine without finding out?  
You can afford to gamble that you don't have a cracked crank or rods?

> - regrind the crank

Not unless they're worn out-of round or scarred up.

> - resize the rods

Ditto to the crank comments.

> - replace the cam shaft (I was told it was a high wear item?)

Have it checked, and replace the tappets.  If the cam lobes and bearing 
journals are good, you should be fine.  If the cam lobes or bearing journals 
are damaged, you're looking at having the cam bore reamed out and bearings 
fitted.

Regardless, use new tappets.  A new set of tappets will greatly extend the 
life of an old cam that's in good condition.

> 
> Do you have any comments on all that?

My most recent rebuild was the engine in my wife's '58 Magnette.
(1500 MGA Engine)
Here's what the shop did:
Balance rods, crank, and flywheel
Check all of the above and head for cracks
Valve Guides
Replace valve seats. (Unleaded fuel conversion)
Flatten sealing surface on head.
Would have had them do any boring, but none was needed.

All in, I think we spent $145 at the machine shop.

Everything else I did/checked myself.

Chris K.





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