My general recs in a nutshell:
1 - Buy the car with the best tub you can find. Preferably rust and rot
free. They are out there. Mechanicals can be fixed/replaced for less
money than trying to restore sheet-metal.
2 - Don't restrict yourself to your local area. The best cars are from
dry areas of the country and anything can be shipped in enclosed
transport for $1,200 Max. List members would likely be willing to survey
a car for you.
I bought two rot-free cars sight-unseen off the internet with the help
of very gracious and accomodating list members.
3 - Be patient. Good cars come to those who wait.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/
No Thanks wrote:
>My questions:
>I have read several "Buying a Spridget" guides online. I know about the
>traditional rust spots to look for (trunk, A-Pillar, bottom of doors). As
>with any motor, greasy exhaust usually indicates an oil-burner, etc, etc.
>
>1. What do you see previous owners screwing up the most?
>2. What Lucas equipment changes to watch for, either good or bad?
>3. I've never had wire wheels, I understand the importance of proper truing
>and torquing. Is there any "in the field" quick inspections?
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