The easiest way to tell is by the engine number. IIRC, at the rear of
the block on the distributor side is a flat protrusion that has the
number stamped on it, and it should look lile FP xxxxx UCE, where FP
denotes a Midget engine, the xxxxx will be the serial, U for US, C for
California, and E for emissions. If it's a federal engine, it'll end
just with UE. That, and I think that California cars had light blue
rocker covers, and Federal ones had a chevy-orange one.
If the compression is fine and it's not burning oil, the minimum I'd do
while the engine is out is to replace all the bottom end bearings (rods,
mains, and especially the thrust washers).
Increasing compression is one of the best things to do to get power, so
if you plan to pull the whole engine apart, it's an easy upgrade. More
power, and still just as easy to start and reliable as before. If you
want a little more, the cam is the next thing. For that, I would talk to
Ted Schumacher at tsimportedautomotive.com. He does all sorts of
regrinds on camshafts for British cars, and can help you pick one
that'll fit your goals.
What I did, is I started with a '79 California engine. I put in the 9:1
pistons, a TS 275-4 reground cam, twin SU carbs, and a 4-2-1 tubular
header. It's got a fairly lumpy idle and doesn't want to idle below
about 1200 rpm, but it's got good pull starting at about 2500 rpm or so.
If I were to do it over again, i'd spring for some machine shop work
porting and polishing the head for better airflow as well. Overall
though, I really like how it performs, and it's a hoot to drive.
Hope that helps.
-=Chris
<-----Original Message----->
From: Ben Bouchard
Sent: 11/21/2005 7:16:06 PM
To: cbking@alum.rpi.edu;spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Midget 1500-CA Engine Rebuild
How do I tell if my '76 is a "federal" model without looking at the
pistons.
My rebuild goal is to clean and tighten things up. I would like more
power but do not want to sacrifice ease of starting and reliability. I
am open to suggestions. I have already installed a Weber downdraft and
Mallory distributor. I am considering electronic ignition. I want to
paint the engine compartment and block, address a transmission oil leak,
review the clutch and just go though the engine in detail. I have had
the car since 1979 and although it is very clean I would like to update
it.
Your suggestions?
Ben
_____
From Chris King [mailto:cbking at alum.rpi.edu]
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 6:44 PM
To: bouchard@umich.edu; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Midget 1500-CA Engine Rebuild
Ben,
All US spec 1500 engines (except for 1976 Federal models) used dished
pistons that resulted in a 7.5:1 compression. All other markets used
flat-top pistons with a compression ratio of 9:1. Camshafts for all
markets, including the UK, were the same. The major differences between
all of the US market cars were in the carb needle and the distributor
advance curve.
That said, it'll help us with the build advice we give you if you tell
us what your goal is in the rebuilding - are you just looking for a
warmed-up street motor, or something a little more radical?
-=Chris
<-----Original Message----->
From: Ben Bouchard
Sent: 11/21/2005 3:47:45 PM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Midget 1500-CA Engine Rebuild
I am considering rebuilding my Midget 1500 engine. This is originally a
California car with the CA Emission setup. I would like to rebuild it to
non-CA specs. Does anyone know of any differences that are internal to
the
engine? I assume that there is a different cam due to the different
ignition timing recommendations between CA and non-CA cars.
Thanks, Ben
Ann Arbor, MI
'76 Midget 1500
.
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