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Re: turn signal saga continues, maybe solved

To: Dan Gillitzer <dang@ticon.net>
Subject: Re: turn signal saga continues, maybe solved
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:04:43 -0800
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
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Speaking of turn signal sagas (with LEC content included)...

When I was in the Navy, another sailor found a sucker to unload his 1954 
Ford 2-door.  I paid him $400 and was thrilled to death to have a car 
that would give me the freedom to get off the base. 

Unfortunately, I discovered that whenever I hit the turn signal lever, 
the horn sounded.  And whenever I hit the horn, the turning lights 
blinked for about 30 seconds.  Nobody, let alone dummy me, could 
understand why that was happening.  An auto mechanic on the base was 
mystified.  I to the crazy situation, and  learned to use the turn 
signal lever when I needed a horn, but did not even try to use the horn 
ring to turn on BOTH turn lights and confuse all of Memphis.

Finally, it was far too much for me.  I sold the Ford to two other 
sailors for $300, but fully explained the quirky behavior.  They were 
aviation electronic technicians, so were over-confident about their 
ability to sort it out!  (Later, I learned that they gave up and sold it 
to a couple of other suckers for $200.)

With the $300 and a Navy Credit Union loan, I went down to Bluff City 
Buick and Imports and (OK, here is the requisite LEC content) bought 
myself the new 1960 Austin-Healey Sprite that is still an integral part 
of the family!

Buster Evans

    Dan Gillitzer wrote:
    Took apart my old switch. Between terminals 1 and 2 (the ones which
    seem to
    bridge the signal from the flasher to the indicator on the dash)
    there is a
    green fiber board with a printed circuit running up and down this
    board. Only
    time I've ever seen a printed circuit on a genuine old Sprite part!
    Seems to
    act as a resistance block. When checking between 1 and 2 i get about
    35-40
    ohms resistance. With the switch assembled and switched off, I get
    close to 0
    ohms, with the switch on park or headlights I get the 40ish ohms.
    Cleaned the
    contacts, put the new toggle on the old switch, seems to all work
    well. Again
    the objective seems to be to possibly reduce the brightness of the
    turn signal
    indicator when the lights are on?
    Dan




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