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SU carb no cost rebuild PART 1

To: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: SU carb no cost rebuild PART 1
From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 22:39:00 -0400
I have just finished up my 8th pair, that's 16 SU carbs, completely 
rebuilt and it didn't cost me a dime other than some spray paint and 
powdercoat dust. All the carbs I did were HS2s from Sprites and Midgets.
So here is the way to go about it.....

The best way to go about it is to do ONE CARB AT A TIME because they are 
handed with totally differrent linkages for front (left) and rear 
(right) carbs. Even the springs are different and you should never mix 
up the dashpots and pistons either.
Tools are simple everyday wrenches and screwdrivers along with a dental 
pick kit and a bench mounted wire wheel brush or glass bead cabinet.

To be sure it's worth the effort on you old carbs, check a few things first.
1) the needle is not bent. Roll it along a flat surface to check it out.
2) the jet tube doesn't leak. Fill the float bowl 1/2" or so with gas or 
petroleum based thinner and see if it leaks at the tube/float bowl 
fitting. If not, the jet tube is still useable.
3) check the throttle shafts for wear, most have some wear and will be 
fine, if it's extreme, buy new shafts.

Dissassemble the carb, start with the dashpot 2 screws. Lift out the 
spring and piston. Remove the metering needle. Remove the float bowl 
cover and carefully save the gasket. A razor blade will cut off any 
stuck gaskets.
With pliers, pull out the float pin, remove the float needle and seat.
Unscrew the throttle plate and pull out the throttle shaft. Now remove 
the shaft nut and linkage along with the idle screw. Sometimes a tap 
with a hammer will free up the 2 pieces of linkage from the shaft.
Remove the choke linkage screw and little bushing from the bottom of the 
jet. Remove the linkage nut and be careful with the linkage return 
spring. Do NOT disassemble this part of the choke linkage unless you are 
real particular about clean shiny carb parts.
I have cleaned them and powdercoated them as they came off yet still 
assembled.
Unscrew the bolt holding the float bowl to the carb housing.
Carefully slip the jet tube out of the carb body but do NOT undo the 
tube from the float bowl.
Remove the jet bearing and washer along with the spring and adjusting nut.
With needle nose pliers, remove the lower clip in the piston push up 
pin, remove the spring and pull out the pin.
Now you have a small pile of parts that need a good cleaning.
If you are glass beading the parts, tape up the business end of the jet 
before blasting the float bowl. Any abrasives coming out of the jet tube 
will change the inside dimensions. Tape will keep the blasting media at bay.
Also do NOT blast the brass jet holder or bearing or the float needle 
and seat nor the metering needle. Do not blast the dashpot piston or the 
inside of the dashpot.
For those parts, a bit of carb cleaner will work fine.
-- 




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