Wire wheel brush or blast all of the bits taking care not to have any
small bits shoot across the room. If you have a modern bench mounted
wire wheel with a far east made brush, wear a face shield, eye
protection, suit of armour, and gloves as these wheels send wire hairs
all over the place. If you have your grand daddy's wire wheel, just do
it but wear eye protection.
Now paint (or powdercoat) all the steel parts. Spring for the choke
link, screws, bolts, throttle links, piston push up pin, and jet nuts.
Some steel wool or a scotch brite pad will shine up the aluminum bits
nicely or a blast of Eastwood's alum-a-blast paint is a pretty good
match. If you want, you can polish the aluminum to an almost chrome like
finish but this will not last in the real world very long.
Gently steel wool the metering needle to clean it up. Remember you are
cleaning the needle, not grinding it down. Use 000 steel wool.
Run a clean lint free rag around the inside of the dashpot and out side
of the piston. Make absolutely sure these parts are clean. Don't forget
the neck of the dashpot.
Slide the piston in the dashpot a few times to make sure.
Install the throttle shaft.
Put a drop of locktite on each throttle screw and install the throttle
plate.
Install the throttle link bits and choke link bits using the other carb
as a reference. Watch the spring position.(now you wish you didn't take
both carbs apart right?)
Bolt on the float bowl and carefully insert the jet with brass bushing
and bearing into the carb body. Do NOT tighten the jet nut at this time.
Center the jet by letting the piston with needle drop into the jet as
you tigten the jet nut. It may take a few trys. Once it drops with a
clunk, install the screw and bushing on the choke link to the jet
plastic base. Check the choke linkage for returning and smooth operation.
Install the float needle and seat into the bowl lid, replace the float
and check it's adjustment. Early carbs (metal) can be bent to adjust,
later carbs (plastic) need a washer installed or removed to set them.
Reuse that old float lid gasket and screw the lid on.
Screw the dashpot on and check the piston once more to make sure it
moves freely and clunks all the way down.
Double check the float bowl to jet tube for leaks by again pouring a bit
of gas or distallatesin the bowl and making sure it does not leak or
weep where the tube is bolted to the bowl.
Now repeat all of the above for the other carb.
Don't forget to clean and paint the linkages between the carbs.
Some notes to remember.
The screws are whitworth thread. If by chance you messed up the float or
dashpot screw threads, a 10/24 tap or die will work.
Also the linkage and float bowl nuts are not 7/16" wrench, but a 12mm
wrench seems to work.
The jet tube to float bowl fitting is a compression/O ring type of deal.
If that seal is broken, go for a carb kit.
NOTE
If any club wants to use this in their newsletter, please let me know.
All I ask is a copy of the newsletter.
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