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A good list.
Worth bearing in mind why the engine is being removed as it may not be
necessary to drain oils
I only drain the engine or gearbox oil if I am intending stripping them
down. I certainly wouldn't for a clutch replacement job. But I DO leave the
drive shaft in the back ogf the gearbox so the oil doesn't drain out!
(actualy I have a spare front yolk that I put in there in place of the drive
shaft, its less cumbersome)
I have drilled 3/16" pilot holes through the hinges into the hinge brackets.
When refitting the bonnet I then use a twist drill through the holes to
align back to the original position. Very quick and easy one done.
I usually remove the dizzy cap and plug leads as they are easily damaged
when lifting the engine.
If the carbs are disconnected as an assembly, they can be swung over to one
side so there is no need to disconnect the throttle or choke cables.
I do have a head steady to remove, though not all would have one of those.
Most would have a temperature sensor to disconnect. Usually one of the
capilliary tube ones so it needs very careful handling!
I have welded two bolts to secure the radiator so that I don't have to
grapple around through slots in the radiator grill any more. The radiator
and cowl is only held by these two and once the nuts are removed the whole
assembly lifts out complete with the cowl and pipes.
I lift with a length of welded link chain looped under the crank pulley at
the front and held on the rear most exhaust manifold stud with a large
washer and a nut the back.
The length of chain is easily adjustable and the angle can be altered as the
engine is lifted without the need for any fancy "levelling bar" device.
I put a small wheeled "dolly" under the rear of the gearbox to help it move
forward as I lift the unit out
Working alone, it takes me 1 hour 15 minutes from opening the bonnet to
finishing with the engine and transmission on the floor.
Putting it back usually takes a little longer, about 1hour 40
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