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Re: [Spridgets] really dumb question, dont laugh

To: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] really dumb question, dont laugh
From: Kitterer Bob <bkitterer@me.com>
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 08:18:56 -0700
Lin,

I have only done this multiple times with the BE.  Except for the first time I
always pull and install the engine and tranny together.  It saves a lot of
knuckles and bad words.  However I opt to undue a few more bolts in order to
make the operation easier, for me at least.  First I use the sling hoist for
the hard top to hold and remove the bonnet, eight bolts. First putting
location marks on the hinges and bonnet so you can tell when the reassembly is
correct while the bonnet is still in the sling.  I have never had to go back
and realign the bonnet with this method.  If the firewall hinge bolts (2) are
clear then removing them from the firewall maybe easier yet.   Once the bonnet
is off I roll the car to the engine hoist location, put the car on body
stands, remove the radiator and the four bolts on the rear universal joint so
the drive shaft is free.  Draining the tranny is a good idea because the oil
will run out the back end when the unit is tilted up on the way out of the car
putting more oil in the tunnel, frame and garage floor, guess how I know that.
Disconnect all the other stuff attached to the engine and tranny.  I find that
with the bonnet and the radiator out of the way you can put the hoist at the
center of balance for the engine and tranny and then just push the tranny down
(or lift the front of the engine to get the tilt)  with your hand as the
assembly comes out or is going back in.  This is with a rolling engine hoist.
With a fixed hoist I have put the car back on the ground and push it out of
the way with a foot or hand as the assembly came out.  Most of the time I am
working by myself so the fewer things to deal with the better.

When reinstalling bring the loose drive shaft forward so it can be connected
to the tranny.  Try to keep the universal joint out of the drive shaft tunnel,
among other things it normally is pretty dirty in there.  I do this because I
find it a royal PIA to keep the spline end of the drive shaft clean inside the
tunnel as well as getting it aligned and in to the tranny.

my 2 cents

Bob Kitterer

1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Mk IV in disguise) - in storage
1966 Austin Healey Sprite Mk III (Trevor) - still in boxes - in storage

On May 30, 2011, at 6:38 AM, Linda Grunthaner wrote:

> As I recall Frank preferred to install the engine with the transmission
> attached. Can anyone on the list tell me why? Is it because it is more
> difficult to line up the engine to the transmission on an angle like that?
> Lin
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