You bought your parts from Mo$$. That could explain some of your problems. All
the parts you need area readily available at NAPA, and are far less likely to
come with pre-existing problems.
Kate
'72 MG Midget
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Kemple" <skemple at tidewater.net>
To: spridgets at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 9:20:52 AM
Subject: [Spridgets] brake problems
Hi all
I'm a new lister, but not new to LBC's. I acquired a 61 Bugeye recently and
have been working on brake problems ever since. Seemed O.K. when I did the
test drive but the brakes seemed weak and the pedal very hard. I chalked it
up to not being used to 4 wheel drum brakes.
On the first drive after delivery the rear brakes locked up. Changed the rear
cylinders. Then the front brakes locked up. After extensive review of the
archives and discussions with the PO it appears that the car had a newly
rebuilt Master Cylinder and ended up with the wrong push rod resulting in no
free movement. That has been corrected. Even after a fairly short drive with
the locked up front brakes, the shoes and cylinders looked pretty much trashed
so I changed them ( shoes and Lockeed type cylinders from Moss). I have two
problems that I have been struggling with for days. First, the right front
wheel drum is very tight with the adjusters completely unadjusted. I can see
no difference in parts. I even tried changing the shoes and drums from the
left side with no difference. The other problem is that I can not get a hard
pedal. I can not detect any leaks and no bubbles when bleeding. I am using
the wife assist bleed method. I can pump up the pedal a bit but it is not
close to right. I let it sit for a couple of days and still no change. The
front flexible lines are new and the rear one looks new. Isolation of the
flexible lines has not pointed to a specific problem. The only other thing to
add is that at one front wheel I found a small amount of fluid inside the drum
back plate but could not detect from where. I thought it may have been a run
away drip from the bleeding process. Could it be a hair line crack in a new
wheel cylinder? I have read just about every brake posting on the archives
looking for an answer. Any thoughts?
Steve Kemple
AN5
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