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Mike,
How much play do you have between the pedal and pushrods?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2021, at 7:27 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets@autox=
.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> We have decided that without pulling the engine and looking what's going o=
n in the bell housing, we're done with the clutch for now. Another problem n=
ow is with the brake pedal. The whole purpose of this was to switch to disc=
brakes from the original drums. I swapped the old master with a 7/8" bore t=
o a new AP Lockheed master with dual 3/4" bores as per disc brake 1098/1275 S=
pridgets up to 1967. I used the old 7/8" brake pushrod that was 4 - 1/8" lo=
ng and cut it down to 3- 11/16" in length. The clutch pushrod was already c=
ut down for the 3/4" sleeve in the original master to accommodate the Datsun=
clutch. After bleeding the brakes and clutch, the clutch is just as it was=
with the old master cylinder, but the brake pedal goes half way to the floo=
r before becoming solid. Brakes work OK, but the excessive travel in the pe=
dal is a mystery. If there was air in the system, you could pump it up to h=
ave the pedal at the top, but pumping the brake pedal makes no difference. N=
o air in the system, so what could it be?
> Mike M
>=20
>> On Wed, Dec 8, 2021, 10:16 AM Jeff Kelly <jeffsbugeye@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Michael et all,
>>=20
>> I have a Rivergate kit. When I installed I used the modified Datsun=20
>> clutch disk , spridget 1275 flywheel and the billet slave cylinder they=20=
>> supplied. I think it is a 7/8" slave. My master is a3/4" bore. Went to=20=
>> 3/4" when I converted to front disc brakes. The clutch system did not=20
>> work out too well. I burned up 2 disks before I sent my flywheel to=20
>> Gerard and had it drilled for the Datsun clutch plate and disk. Works=20=
>> better, but still needs some adjusting. To completely disengage, my=20
>> pedal is all the way to the floor. I wonder if a 7/8" master would work=20=
>> better. Long range I plan to install seperate brake and clutch masters=20=
>> and us a 7/8" for the clutch.
>>=20
>> Jeff Kelly
>>=20
> ------------------------
>=20
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk=
@chartermi.net
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Mike,<div><br></div><div>How much play do y=
ou have between the pedal and pushrods?<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my=
iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 8, 2021, a=
t 7:27 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wr=
ote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto">We have decided that without pulling the engine and l=
ooking what's going on in the bell housing, we're done with the clutch for n=
ow. Another problem now is with the brake pedal. The whole purpo=
se of this was to switch to disc brakes from the original drums. I swa=
pped the old master with a 7/8" bore to a new AP Lockheed master with dual 3=
/4" bores as per disc brake 1098/1275 Spridgets up to 1967. I used the=
old 7/8" brake pushrod that was 4 - 1/8" long and cut it down to 3- 11/16" i=
n length. The clutch pushrod was already cut down for the 3/4" sleeve i=
n the original master to accommodate the Datsun clutch. After bleeding=
the brakes and clutch, the clutch is just as it was with the old master cyl=
inder, but the brake pedal goes half way to the floor before becoming solid.=
Brakes work OK, but the excessive travel in the pedal is a mystery.&n=
bsp; If there was air in the system, you could pump it up to have the pedal a=
t the top, but pumping the brake pedal makes no difference. No air in t=
he system, so what could it be?<div dir=3D"auto">Mike M</div></div><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Dec 8, 20=
21, 10:16 AM Jeff Kelly <<a href=3D"mailto:jeffsbugeye@gmail.com";>jeffsbu=
geye@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Michael=
et all,<br>
<br>
I have a Rivergate kit. When I installed I used the modified Datsun <b=
r>
clutch disk , spridget 1275 flywheel and the billet slave cylinder they <br>=
supplied. I think it is a 7/8" slave. My master is a3/4" bore. Went to=
<br>
3/4" when I converted to front disc brakes. The clutch system did not <br>
work out too well. I burned up 2 disks before I sent my flywheel to <b=
r>
Gerard and had it drilled for the Datsun clutch plate and disk. Works <=
br>
better, but still needs some adjusting. To completely disengage, my <b=
r>
pedal is all the way to the floor. I wonder if a 7/8" master would wor=
k <br>
better. Long range I plan to install seperate brake and clutch masters=
<br>
and us a 7/8" for the clutch.<br>
<br>
Jeff Kelly<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
<span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span>spridgets@au=
tox.team.net</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br><span>=
</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http=
://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manag=
e: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk@chartermi.net</spa=
n><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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