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Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed

To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51@gmail.com> jx6ZsNtp+A1ac1caxzndGdACT5CzG8bJFF24Nl4zI2LOgVILBukpDZPd4XvVrTLcjBtR8bLNPaRVRkCv0WSH08o9fswqimz6qTMZj8ee3Fm/U2I5ZYZ4PyW8 0xjBWexibXAA4KA7TmpStw==
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed
From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 00:20:24 -0500
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Cc: Spridgets <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <CAL4ZEON7wpV5TZ9tV_ad8gFGgGj=GcGtiJhLWgrwnsAfRJVCbA@mail.gmail.com>
Hi Mike,

Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master.  Make sure the rear drums are 
adjusted properly.  If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will 
have to pump the pedal to get it firm.

Rick

> On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets 
> <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped 
> out for disc brakes.  The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the 
> Datsun clutch.  The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers 
> correctly.  Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple 
> times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works.  
> You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it.  There are 
> no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in 
> the system.  Any ideas?
> Mike MacLean
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