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Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed

To: Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed
From: Ron Corry via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 10:27:47 +0000
Cc: Spridgets <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: Spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <CAL4ZEON7wpV5TZ9tV_ad8gFGgGj=GcGtiJhLWgrwnsAfRJVCbA@mail.gmail.com> <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net>
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I read on his website that Bugeyeguy has stayed with 7/8" brake masters
when fitting front discs and that he sees no need for a change to 3/4".

I changed to 3/4" a tandem master when I fitted front discs and Datsun
5Sp., but when I later fitted rear discs, the initial 'bite' on the pedal
went way down. If I pull up the H/brake when (foot) braking, the 'bite'
point comes right up again.

So, I now have a new 7/8" Master on the bench ready to fit, along with a
remote Servo. Will report on progress in time.

Yes, I know our cars don't need rear discs; it has been a fun (read Vanity)
project for me, that also eliminates all that trouble dealing with leaking
wheel cylinders and adjusting shoes. However, I will not negatively comment
if your choice is to keep rear drums.

On Sun 16 Jan 2022, 05:20 Rick Fisk via Spridgets, <spridgets@autox.team.ne=
t>
wrote:

> Hi Mike,
>
> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master.  Make sure the rear drums ar=
e
> adjusted properly.  If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often
> will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.
>
> Rick
>
> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently
> swapped out for disc brakes.  The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8"
> sleeve for the Datsun clutch.  The new master is 7/8" in both bores to
> actuate the calipers correctly.  Installation went without a hitch and th=
e
> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes dow=
n
> aways before it works.  You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can'=
t
> understand it.  There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts
> like there is still air in the system.  Any ideas?
> > Mike MacLean
> > ------------------------
> >
> > spridgets@autox.team.net
> >
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>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
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>

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<div dir=3D"auto">I read on his website that Bugeyeguy has stayed with 7/8&=
quot; brake masters when fitting front discs and that he sees no need for a=
 change to 3/4&quot;.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I change=
d to 3/4&quot; a tandem master when I fitted front discs and Datsun 5Sp., b=
ut when I later fitted rear discs, the initial &#39;bite&#39; on the pedal =
went way down. If I pull up the H/brake when (foot) braking, the &#39;bite&=
#39; point comes right up again.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">So, I now have a new 7/8&quot; Master on the bench ready to fit, =
along with a remote Servo. Will report on progress in time.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Yes, I know our cars don&#39;t need r=
ear discs; it has been a fun (read Vanity) project for me, that also elimin=
ates all that trouble dealing with leaking wheel cylinders and adjusting sh=
oes. However, I will not negatively comment if your choice is to keep rear =
drums.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Sun 16 Jan 2022, 05:20 Rick Fisk via Spridgets, &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote=
:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bor=
der-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi Mike,<br>
<br>
Front disc brakes should have a 3/4&quot; master.=C2=A0 Make sure the rear =
drums are adjusted properly.=C2=A0 If the rears aren&#39;t adjusted properl=
y you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.<br>
<br>
Rick<br>
<br>
&gt; On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">=
spridgets@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently s=
wapped out for disc brakes.=C2=A0 The old master was 3/4&quot; bore with a =
7/8&quot; sleeve for the Datsun clutch.=C2=A0 The new master is 7/8&quot; i=
n both bores to actuate the calipers correctly.=C2=A0 Installation went wit=
hout a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the b=
rake pedal goes down aways before it works.=C2=A0 You can actually pump the=
 pedal up a bit. We can&#39;t understand it.=C2=A0 There are no leaks and i=
t was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system.=C2=
=A0 Any ideas?<br>
&gt; Mike MacLean<br>
&gt; ------------------------<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">spridgets@autox.team.net</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br>
&gt; <br>
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nk">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk@chartermi.net</a=
><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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