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RE: Project Car

To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net, "'Anita & Jim Barrett'" <anitabrt@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Project Car
From: "Richard Atherton (Entex)" <a-richat@MICROSOFT.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 06:52:43 -0700
        Ok, That's it.  It's "Go Time" Jim, Let's see some picture of
all of this incredible work that you have done to this ....Thing that
once was a stock Tiger, and now is probably the most modified Tiger on
This planet.  I want some color sanp shots of the front suspention, rear
tubs, Engin compartment, Frame rails, and any other highly modified
parts that you have changed or created out of thin air.  I just have to
see some pictures of this.  I hope Mark Olson has some room for the pics
on the web server...


> ----------
> From:         Anita & Jim Barrett[SMTP:anitabrt@mindspring.com]
> Reply To:     Anita & Jim Barrett
> Sent:         Monday, July 07, 1997 8:30 PM
> To:   tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject:      Project Car
> At 02:40 pm 7/6/97 GMT, you wrote:
> >Jim,
> >I saw you response to the fellow who asked about Lincoln rear ends. I
> was
> >intrigued to see that some one is actually doing what I have wanted
> to do
> >for years. Turn an Apline into a drag racer! At least that's what I
> assume
> >when I see "straight line stuff". I have been computer modeling my
> dream car
> >for some time now. I am going to use a small block (302) rather that
> the 460
> >cubic inch monster, but I will have a Vortec R series blower (15 psi
> boost).
> >Etc, etc, etc. I am interested in your experiences with tubbing the
> car,
> >subframe, firewall mods and anything else you might wish to pass
> along to
> >me. I keep looking at the NHRA rules and see that the minimum
> wheelbase for
> >competition is 90 inches - did you extend your wheel base? How, if
> so?. What
> >did you do with the front suspension? Or is it "stock". I will be
> using a C4
> >- what tranny are you using? What size tires? I am planning on using
> 10
> >slicks, 29.5 inches in diameter. Goodyear told me that I could expect
> a 1
> >inch growth due to wheel speed, so I will be trying to use tubs that
> are 36
> >inches or smaller. I too will use a shortened 9 inch rear with a
> spool, but
> >my simulations show that I will get both max speed and top end with a
> gear
> >ratio of approximately 3.73:1 using the C4 (simulations show 7.3
> elapsed
> >time and around 175 mph trap speeds - yeow!).
> >
> >Since I am now an "older retired guy" (55), I have the time and
> inclination
> >to begin my project. I own a Tiger Mark I (for 31 years now) and used
> to
> >race it as a member of the Ford Drag Club (mid 60's) but do not want
> to
> >thrash it again. Now where do I find a reasonable Alpine sacrifice? 
> >
> >I hope to hear from you and what you've done in your project..As I
> get
> >started I'll keep everyone informed also.
> >
> >L.E. Mayfield
> >124 Maximillion Drive
> >Madison, Al. 35758-8171
> >205-837-1051
> >
> >DrMayf@AOL.com
> >mayfield@traveller.com <<<<preferred
> >
> >"Thought is the software of the mind;
> >rational thought is bug free!"
> >
> Lawrence,
>         One of the major problems I had was the tubs.  The Alpine just
>  doesn't have much space for tall tires even with everything stripped
> out
> except for the actual fenders.  Assuming you want to keep the top of
> the 
> rear fender stock shaped.  Also there is limited space forward of the 
> rear axle.  I now have 3" from the rear corner of the door to the
> front
> surface of the tub. The tub is welded to the  numerous sheet metal
> pieces that exist within this area.  Had to punch holes and do rosette
> welding to make the connections between the tub and the body pieces
> (after I did a lot of cutting on the body pieces behind the door).
> Could
> use another couple of inches clearance, but it is too late now.  I
> fabricated
> the tub from flat stock.  It is difficult to match the tub to the
> inner wall
>  of the fender.  The tub top is 1" down from the top surface of the
> fender
> at a point about 17" back from the door line at the top.  As I stated
> before,
> the new homemade rear frames are 39" outside to outside.  the frames
> are
>  made of 1/16" steel welded into about 2" square box shape.  The tubs
> are
>  also welded full length to the inside of the frames.  The tubs change
> from 
> circular to flat as they enter the previous gas tank area.  Sort of a
> tear drop
> shape extending into the trunk.
> The coil
>  springs are adjustable like a NASCAR.  There is a 2"long nut welded
> within the frame directly over where the spring will go.  A 3/4"
> all-thread
> with a upper spring retainer is threaded through the nut.  Adjusting
> the
> length of the all-thread will allow me to change ride height or bias
> one
> side as required. The upper spring retainer is a 1/4" thick disk 4
> 1/2"
> dia. with a center hole for the all-thread (with 3/4" of threads
> machined off)
> Two 3/8 "U" shapes are welded at right angles to fit within the
> spring.
> A 1/8" hole through the end of the threaded rod holds a cotter pin
> that keeps the upper spring retainer from falling off when I remove
> the 
> springs.  I back up the spring retainer with a nut on the top side
> (under
> the frame) and lock the 3/4" adjusting rod with another nut on top of
> the
> frame.  The frame has extra internal diagonial re-enforcement as well.
> The front end now has Lincoln Spindles and ball joints as well as the
> huge
>  Lincoln disks and calipers. Modified the "A" Arms to take the Ball
> Joints.
> The Upper A arm is relocated much higher than the original setup to
> give the
> proper gemotery.  The Upper A arm mount is welded to the new 2" by 3" 
> steel tubing front frames.  The frames are much wider than the
> original
> to allow more room up front.  The firewall is moved back flush with
> the raised sheet metal rain lip ( about 1 1/2" from the rear edge of
> the 
> hood).  The inner fenders were modified to match the firewall and the
> wider frames. ( Lot of sheet metal fabrication and welding required).
> The transmission is a later model 4 speed top loader with a Hurst
> Shifter.
> I modified the firewall for dual master cylinders with a balance bar
> linkage
> so I can adjust brake front/rear bias.  I want this thing to stop as
> well as go.
> Used the original Alpine steering arms ( swapped to opposite sides)
> and 
> fabricated / welded  some steel blocks to the Linclon spindle to bolt
> them on
> similar to the  Tiger design for steering arm attachment.   
>         Major modifications to the Alpine cross member to attempt to
> provide
> a rack and pinion steering that has proper Ackerman angles.  ( still
> working
> this along with bump steer)  Still not satisified with my design on
> the
> steering.
> At the moment there is no floor in the Alpine.  I am considering
> building a
> roll 
> cage before I do the floor.  (Finally got the proper tool (as a gift)
> to cut
> fish
>  mouths in the cage tubing.)
> Mean while I have to work for a living as well as fix another Alpine,
> my Tiger,
> and my daughter's various cars and pay the Palm Beach University.  I
> wish I
> could afford to retire next year at 55 and work on cars.
> Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others ( only had Tiger II for 28 years)

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