Hey!.. 14 lbs will smoke your wheel bearing for sure!. I was
tought, and have always done this. When repacking the bearings, or just
pulling the hub off and putting it back on, .....light film of grease
on the seal (keeps it cool), slide on hub, insert front (outer) bearing,
washer, and nut. Tighten nut fairly tight (10 to 15 ftlbs) spin the hub
around a few times, snug a bit more, and spin it some more. Now back
off the nut until loose and then re tighten with finger only. spin hub
again, and re finger tighten. Use wrench to add about 1/2 a turn or
until snug but not tight. There should be no real free play, and the
hub should spin easily without feeling tight. Align nut or nut cover
washer with holes in spindle turning the nut the least amount in either
direction, and add cotter pin.
Too wordy I know....Can't help it !! 8-) It's worked on
every car I have ever owned with out even one bearing failure, except my
moms 75 V-8 Chev Monza. It went through 3 sets of out bearings. They
were litterally have the size of the Alpine outer bearing because they
are from the Vega but now with a heavy car and a small block V-8 over
them. Very poor design.
Rich
> ----------
> From: richards@northcoast.com[SMTP:richards@northcoast.com]
> Reply To: richards@northcoast.com
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 1997 9:23 PM
> To: rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu; Spontelli, Ramon
> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Brake Rotors
>
> torque the wheel bearings to 14 lbs.......yikes...no free play..!!?!!
>
> On Mon, 25 Aug 97, rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu (Bob Palmer) wrote:
> >Ramon,
> >
> >Just a thought about what may have caused your rotor to bust: Suppose
> your
> >wheel bearing was a little loose. Now you clamp the binders on hard
> and hit
> >a bump, or turn, or otherwise apply a lateral force. Instead of the
> wheel
> >bearings taking the load, the rotor will take the load, causing it to
> break
> >(not brake). Sound plausible? You should torque your wheel bearings
> to
> >about 14 ft-lbs if I remember correctly. In any case, you shouldn't
> be able
> >to feel any play in the wheel when it is adjusted correctly. They do
> have a
> >tendency to get loose over time; especially when the bearings are
> first
> >installed.
> >
> >Bob
> >
> >>Just when you think you can live with the flakey ball joints,
> fulcrum
> >>pins, reverse-Ackerman, twist-o-flex front crossmember and stuff,
> here
> >>comes another. At the CalClub autocross Saturday night, we busted
> a
> >>brake rotor on my second run. Damnedest thing I ever saw. It broke
> all
> >>the way around the mounting area, leaving the rotor part to
> free-wheel,
> >>with the mounting part still attached to the hub.
> >>
> >>Although it made a gosh-awful noise, there was no other damage. It
> >>burred the corner on one of the dust-sheild mounting bolts, and
> scraped
> >>a bit of paint off the inside of the shield itself, but no damage
> other
> >>than the busted rotor. And, since the rotor itself remained intact,
> the
> >>braking loss was limited to the one front wheel--no loss of fluid or
> >>anything, 'cause the rotor kept the pads in place.
> >>
> >>Damnedest thing I ever saw!
> >>
> >>Ramon
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
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