Bill and Carol Rogers wrote:
> provide extra cooling. It works for me. Any of you experts have ideas on
> this?
> Bill Rogers B9472703
Bill, I am not going to claim "expertise" on oil cooled cars, but I have
owned 4 of them. One was a 1959 Porsche 356 Coupe, one a 1966 Porsche
911S coupe, and a '71 VW Bug. While most people tend to think of them as
"air" cooled, fully 80 to 90% of the cooling was from air-oil heat
exchangers. The "oil radiator" was inside the fan housings, and was
cooled by forced air, the rest of which went over the cylinder fins for
the other 20%. The 911 was a "dry sump" with 14 quarts of oil in the
fender tank!.
Oh yes, the 4th car. It was a 1967 Sunbeam Alpine, now Jay;s, with a
factory oil cooler. When measuring engine temperature on the Porsches
(factory equipped with gauges) you were measuring oil temperature.
I believe that the MkII Tiger used an oil cooler.
Increasing the sump capacity would only delay thermal equilibrium, less
the added heat transfer thru the added oil pan surface area - not very
efficient. An external oil cooler, like the Alpine and the MkII is much
better, with the risk of a ruptured external line or fitting - don't be
cheap here, use AN fittings and high quality hoses and heat exchangers,
not worm clamps, cheap "radiators" and bulged tubes.
As in our water cooling, air flow is critical. Finding the right place
to put it is as important as the radiator flow we are lacking.
Best advise - Find someone who has done it properly, and follow his
success. I believe Dale A., in San Bernadino, has had a great deal of
experience here. (I'd spell his last name, but I'd get it wrong - help
me here)
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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