I just had to remove and replace my engine for the same purpose. I
found that
going out the bottom was rather painless, fast, and was something I
could do
by myself.
I was able to remove the engine and have the cross member back in place
(to
make it a rolling body) in about an hour or so. I was also able to
install the engine
back into the painted engine compartment and reinstall the cross member
in
a couple of hours max, by myself, without scratching up the new paint.
What makes the job possible (besides a big engine hoist) is a modified
warehouse
pallet. The engine is lowered onto the pallet to get it out from under
the car.
You will have to nail so additional wood to the pallet so the engine
sits firmly.
The pallet also has to be trimmed so it will fit between the engine
hoist legs, and it has to
have small heavy duty casters attached so it will roll around. Try to
get the center of
gravity for the engine *and trans* close to the center of the pallet.
The trans is a *heavy*
sucker!
Here is the procedure I used for engine removal. I make no claims for
safety, so
use at your own risk.
A) Removal of front crossmember.
1) leave wheels on crossmember!
2) attach engine hoist to engine via some grade 5 bolts in heads.
Attach to front of left head
and rear of right head.
3) Lift engine and body so that the weight is off the crossmember but
the wheels are still
in contact with the floor.
4) Support the front of the crossmember (using blocks of wood or a
jackstand) and
remove the 4 retaining bolts. Detach steering column and brake line
at the junction fitting. Crossmember should be detached from the
body at this point.
5) Use the engine hoist to raise up the car up to the point that the
modified pallet
will fit under the engine. Support the car with jackstands.
6) Detach the engine hoist from the engine, and pull it back. You can
now hold
on to the front of the crossmember, and just wheel it out of the
way. This is a
whole lot easier than trying to drag it around without wheels
attached.
B) Removal of Engine
1) move pallet under engine.
2) attach engine hoist to engine and apply enough pressure to support
the engine
3) detach engine and trans mounts (and all the other stuff connecting
the engine to
the body)
4) lower engine on to pallet
5) detach engine hoist, move it out of the way
6) wheel engine out from under the car (hopefully you raised the car
high enough to
clear the carb!)
7) roll cross member back under car, and support the front with blocks
or jackstand
as before.
8) roll engine hoist back over to car, and attach the hoist chain to the
body where the
motor hangers were attached. You can use the original bolts for
this; just get some
nuts which fit them.
9) Lift up the body using the engine hoist, remove the jackstands, and
lower the body
on to the crossmember.
10) Bolt the crossmember back onto the frame.
Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly, as the manual always says.
Chris Mottram wrote:
> OK, Now I'm confused. I decided to check the archives
> before pleading for the "Dummies guide to Tiger engine
> removal" . There were methods for out the top and out
> the bottom. I want to yank the engine to allow for
> painting of the engine compartment at the body shop.
> Should I pull it out the top so I don't have to remove
> all the steering and stuff? I will be using a tow
> dolly to bring the rolling chasis to the body/paint
> guy. I have not done this before. Would it be worth
> it to let the body shop pull the engine?
>
> Chris
>
> =====
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