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Re: engine start-up advice

To: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: engine start-up advice
From: Curtis Fisher <Curtis.Fisher@trw.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 06:49:39 -0800
Hi Bob, 
Yes, the motor was electrically run in prior to shipping.  I don't know the
amount but now that you've reminded my, I'll call Motorsport and ask.
They've been pretty helpful with info.  The motor was shipped full of oil
with filter, without intake and exhaust.  I had to remove their oil pan
(and that was sort of messy) to replace the normal oil pump with a
high-volume pump.  I've already primed the oil pump using the method you
Let me rephrase the question.  Is there something wrong with start ups of 2
minutes + 3 + 3 + 2 + 4 + 6 = 20 minutes?  I've heard the 15-20 must be
continuous.  Just curious why.  

Other trivia, the crate motor aluminum head did not fit the exhaust
manifold used with the 289 iron heads.  Lots of grinding on the bottom
flanges, especially the left (5-8) side.  As soon as my CAT headers come
in, I'll fit them per Tom Hall and Dan Whitely's latest tech tip. The
Explorer damper and water pump (reverse rotation) clear the rack and pinion
by one inch.  I am using those with a serpentine belt.  I'll be happy to
post the +/-'s of that soon.  Curtis

At 10:05 PM 3/18/00 -0800, Bob Palmer wrote:
>I think the recommendation given of 15-20 minutes at 1,500 to 2,000 rpm is 
>pretty standard. for breaking in a new motor. You may need to keep a hose 
>handy in case the temperature gets too high; just douse the radiator to 
>keep it cool. I'd also recommend you pre-oil the motor. Pull the 
>distributor and get a hex socket on the oil pump drive shaft. Turn it 
>counter-clockwise, the same direction the distributor turns, to pump oil 
>through the motor. I use a drill motor, with the direction reversed, to 
>turn the shaft. There's quite a bit of torque involved so hang on. Be sure 
>the hex drive shaft doesn't come loose when you pull out the socket though. 
>There's only a cheesy clip keeping it from pulling out, and sometimes it 
>can happen with disastrous results. I found that by packing some grease 
>around the hex shaft it stays centered after you pull the hex socket off, 
>which makes it much easier to get the distributor back in. If you have a 
>problem getting the distributor back in, usually, hitting the starter 
>briefly while pushing down on the distributor does the trick. And, if your 
>lucky, the rotor will even be pointing the right direction, but this 
>usually takes at least a couple of tries before you get it right.
>Hope everything goes well. BTW, haven't all production motors like yours 
>already been run in?
>At 09:29 PM 3/18/00 -0800, Curtis Fisher wrote:
>>Newsgroup, I am about to start my Ford crate motor for the first time.  It
>>is a production motor that came down the same assembly line as 5.0 motors.
>>I bought it as a long block and added induction, exhaust, ignition and
>>accessories.  When you first start a new motor, what is the recommended
>>procedure? (not driving, just in the car) I've read Haynes, Chiltons and
>>heard other advices. Should I run it 20 minutes on the first start to
>>properly 'condition' parts like the cam and other?  Folks at the Mustang
>>Ranch tell me 15-20 minutes at 1,500-2,000 is the minimum or I'll
>>improperly break in the cam, Speed Merchant said 20-30 minutes (at 2000).
>>Haynes does not have any precautions other than monitoring for noises. Can
>>you advise me and others about the correct method and rationale?  Looking
>>forward to your advice.
>>Curtis in Santa Clara

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