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Dyno Tune

To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Dyno Tune
From: Larry Paulick <larry.p@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 19:21:18 -0400
Hi Group.  I got my MKI back for the shop for exhaust and dyno tuning. 
Here are the results.

Car has 1990 5.0 L Mustang motor (tight motor, with 39K miles) with t-5
trans, and 3.54 gears on 205/50-15 tires in the rear that are
approximately the same diameter as stock 70-13 tires.

The engine is stock, but with 1:7 roller rockers, Edelbrock F4B
manifold, Holley double pumper at 600 fpm, 14" FlexLite fan, Mallory
Magnetic distr, Mallory fat coil, MSD 6AL w/ 6 K limiter, Taylor 8 mm
wires, stock air cleaner w/ K&N filter,  Ricks headers, H-Pipe, 2 1/4"
pipes, and Flow Master 50 series 3 chamber mufflers.

The stock Mustang 90-95 with EFI he tunes, pull 175 rear wheel hp.  This
is the real world, as tested on many Mustangs coming into the shop. 
Interesting as Ford claims, 225 hp.  

A base line pull yielded 206 hp and 254.7 torque.

After adjusting the distributor to a total of 34 degrees advance, w/o
the vacuum connected, and the plugs set at .046", and a reduction of the
primary jets to 64, and the secondary jets to 73, and with the rear
squirters at 25, the car pulled 236 hp and 276.3 torque at 5,000 rpm.  

The rev limiter on the MSD or the MSD box was cutting out at 5,300 rpm.

The torque curve was really flat, with 250 ft/lbs at 2,000 rpm, 276 at
4,000 rpm, and dropping to 240 ft/lbs at 5,000 rpm.  

The hp was 95 at 2,000 rpm and 236 at 5,000 rpm, and according to the
tuner it would go to 5,400 rpm with the stock cam and a little more hp. 
The hp curve was also very flat.  The engine never had any detonation,
with the hard pulls.

He also said that I could crank a couple more degrees of advance into
the car, but the starter was fadding, and he thought that he had too
much advance, as the starter hesitated when he started the car.  I had
set the degree tape on the crank using a piston stop, so I know that it
was correct.

The car did not puke, at ambient temp of 72 degrees, and the old
reliable temp gauge, with a new temp sender, did not show over 200
degrees, if the temp gauge itself can be believed.  I did put a new and
larger radiator core in and use water wetter and 50/50 antifreeze.  It
also has a 180 thermostat, and a higher flow/efficency water pump.

Although the K&N filter helped smooth out the hp curve at the upper
limits, the tuner said that it was very restrictive, since the height of
the filter is so small.  A taller filter would help it breath, and of
course the jets would have to change as well.

Bottom line, on my car, I got 35 hp, and 22 ft/lbs or torque for $150. 
This of course is rear wheel figures.

In computing the time slips with his calculator, which is right on for
his race car, he had some interesting figures.  

If the wheels don't spin too much using DOT legal drag tires, and the
driver knows what he is doing, he computes a 11.8 sec. / 110 mph in the
quarter mile.  With tire slippage and a reasonable driver, he said that
12.5 sec is reasonable.

This is with the 2,700 lb Tiger with this motor, and 3.54 gears.

I have only driven the car a short distance, and don't know the validity
of these figures, but the car has a verrrrry strong feel, and the tuner
is into drag racing full time, tuning race cars, and custom muffler.  I
asked him not to smoke me on the figures, and he said he thought they
were right, but that traction would be a problem on anything other than
street legal drag tires.  

His web site is www.insaneracing.com if you want to see what he does.

Another Tiger owner with a crate 285 hp motor, Holley 600 w/ vacuum
secondaries, T-5  and 3.08 gears,, I think, will have his exhaust
duplicated next week, and the engine dyno tuned.  I will really be
interested to see what his dyno figures are as they should be real
strong with that motor.

This is at least one bench mark on the ground up resto, with everything
on the car rebuilt, and the engine, trans, elec., suspension, brakes
different than stock.

I will look at the suspension again this week end, to see why the car is
still up 2" in front and back.  Can't figure it out, and those who have
supplied suggestion, thanks all, still have not found the solution.
  
Of course, one thing at a time, as I can't eat the whole elephant in one bit.

Larry

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