Chris,
It really all depends on whether you still have the original thick
washer spacers between the motor mount and the block on the 2 holes/side
they mount on. This would raise your engine, and clearance of fan to
steering rack.
Generally, you have to take off about 1/2 inch of tip in the area where
the fan is right over the rack. This is often made into a smooth curve,
rather than a circular notch. It's a fit-up and measure in place affair,
so you know just where the contact is (fore-aft), and how deep. Leave
clearance for engine rocking, or it will self-fit with a lot of banging noises.
I made a pattern and cut each blade the identical amount. It saves
having to have it dynamically balanced if they are different. If there
is any doubt in your mind, mount it, spin it up slowly, and see if you
reach a harmonic where it starts to vibrate (Or just pay to have it
balanced.) It could tear your pump apart, break off a blade that could
damage the shroud and hood, or just annoy.
The hole in the center must be made to fit your hub (1 ", but measure to
get it correct. This should be a rather snug fit, as it is the centering
method, not the fairly sloppy bolt holes.
The correctness of your motor mounts play a part here two. They are NOT
Mustang mounts, and are a left and right.
Making a small formed sheet metal part (removable) to connect the
opening on the bottom of the shroud would be a good idea too, as you
want no leaks. This happens to be in the area of the rack, so you may
want to form it to fit between the shroud ends and a close fit to the
rack backside, but NOT on top of the rack at the point where the blades
comes closest. A little bending and banging of aluminum sheet ought to
do it.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
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