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Best Fuel tank Selant(s)

To: "Tiger List" <tigers@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Best Fuel tank Selant(s)
From: "Rich Atherton" <aka.gumby@gte.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:36:09 -0800
    Hi Gang.  I haven't posted in a long time, so since I am doing some work
on my motorcycle, I figured I would ask the list here which tank sealers are
the best.  The Alpine and Tiger tanks are not that dissimilar from my
motorcycle tank.  We all get rust in them from condensation over the years
(motorcycles more so due to the wild temperature changes associated with being
in direct sun light.

    The Old way:  Years ago when I would do this , I would take the tank off,
drain it, washing it out with laundry soap to remove all oily and gas
residues, make sure it was completely dry and free of fumes, then would a
bunch of nuts and bolts and nails in to it, and begin the shaking process.
All that stuff would chip away at any corrosion, rust, paint, and thing else
that was in there that shouldn't be.  A good hour or two of all position
shaking and sliding the stuff around, really would do a nice job of removing
everything.  Gave me some pretty beefy arms as a side benefit, which of course
allowed me to tip back more cold ones with out fatigue....I digress...   So..I
world then open the cap and shake out all of the "stuff"..I would then blow
out the tank with air,  then wash it one more time with the laundry soap,
Rinse twice, and then completely dry it again with a hair blow dryer.  Inside
of the tank would look like brand new..  THEN, I would use this stuff called
Slushing compound.  It was a fairly thick (molasses like) Yellowish golden
colored Tank sealant out of a paint type can..  I would pour about half a
quart of this stuff in to the sealed up tank, and wash it all around.  it was
vital to make sure it coated every surface inside the tank.  It was thin
enough (barely) to shake it all around and get it all covered in just a few
minutes.  Pouring the left over stuff out, and allowing it to air cure.
usually took a day or two for it to completely cure..  End result was a fairly
thick 1/16" probably coating of this semi elastic sealant.  It would not chip
off as it was flexible.  It was impervious to everything except Acetone, MEK,
or Nitro Methane, they would all soften it but would not melt it, and once it
dried again, was back to what it was before.   I loved this stuff.  Never Ever
had a leak after a treatment.   The Problem...I don't think this stuff is
around anymore.

    Question to the List:   Which of the modern Sealants / rust inhibitors
works the best?  There is one called Kreame or something like that which is a
three part chemical treatment..etcher, inhibitor, and sealant.  There's anther
one from some auto company Hiller's or something like that..  it's an Etcher
sealant, and one other one I guess.  I prefer to Run Arco gas in my vehicles
because it has a 10% Alcohol content.  It's my GreenPeace thing..  It also
keeps water out of the fuel system.  Now the reason I mention that, is some of
these are reported  to be sensitive to Alcohol, or other additives.
Obviously, that's not acceptable..   SO... fill me in, on what's out there.?
Anything Different in Canada?  Different environmental laws up there, but if
that where the best stuff is, I'll make the 120 mile trip North to get it..

Thanks for your time friends.  Even though this is Motorcycle related, it's
also VERY applicable to the Alpine/Tiger side saddle tanks.

Rich Atherton
Former 65 Series IV Alpine, and Imp owner
Former PTC Member too.  Yes Jim I know..I should join again..   :-)

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