Hi:
I have restored several Alpine/Tiger and experimented with a variety of
soundproofing, heat reflecting and waterproofing solutions. My conclusion:
On the Tiger suggest using Lizard Skin Insulation on the engine-side of the
lower firewall, tunnel, floor and X-member (adjacent to where exhaust passes
thru). This will reduce engine and exhaust related heat transfer into the
cabin area. (Cost around $100). Engine/exhaust heat on the Alpine is nowhere
as pronounced as on Tiger.
On the Alpine/Tiger suggest using Urethane truck bed liner as undercoating.
Should be applied to entire underbody, inside fenders, inside doors, inside
lower half of the rear quarters, inside rear area where fuel tank connector
is, on the floors (up to door opening), on rear package area and inside the
battery box. This can be applied on top of Lizard Skin and can be tinted to
approach the body color if desired. The stuff is near bullet proof and
provides a modest amount of sound suppression. (Cost around $200 including
underliner spray gun)
On the Alpine/Tiger suggest using asphalt insulation as soundproofing.
Should be applied to floor, rear-seat package area, vertical rise from floor
to rear-seat package area, on tunnel under the center console, in doors, in
rear quarter panels and in front quarter panel behind kick panels. Whitney's
sells the stuff in 32x54 inch sheets, which is ideal for the floor on one
side, and in a box of 12 10x13 inch sheets, which is ideal for the doors and
quarter panels. After applying use a heat gun/roller to press into shape and
ensure strong bond. (Cost around $100)
On the Alpine/Tiger suggest using 3/8 inch double-sided aluminum foil faced
sound blanket as further soundproofing. Should be applied using contact
adhesive to the cabin-side of the firewall (with adequate cutout clearance
for brake/clutch pedal assembly), and to the cabin-side of the tunnel.
Whitney's sells stuff in 4x4 feet rolls and also sells "Sticky Stuff" spray
adhesive - only need one can. (Cost approx $175)
So total materials cost (November 2008) to properly soundproof, insulate and
weatherproof Alpine/Tiger to will be about $600. The soundproofing is an
easy do-it-yourself job that can be completed over a long weekend (suggest
making templates for floor and tunnel out of poster board before cutting
material.)
Applying the Lizard skin and Urethane can be done by competent
do-it-yourselfer but requires air compressor and can be messy. It is best
applied during a full restoration when the car is on a rotisserie.
Also suggest applying a small amount of butyl rubber self-adhesive sealing
tape between the trunk skin and the trunk frame (x-shaped area) and between
the bonnet skin and the bonnet frame. Squeeze a small amount between the
frame and skin at each of the four 'v' formed by the X-shaped trunk frame
and every 8 inches between the bonnet skin and bonnet frame. This will
dramatically reduce the tininess of the trunk and bonnet.
Suggest using the remainder of this tape as calking around rubber grommets
and anywhere there is a gap in the body where water can penetrate. The stuff
can be obtained as a body shop supply center (can get it in a roll of 3/8
inch diameter tape).
Good luck,
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Lynn Wall [mailto:cars@wt-inc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 3:47 PM
To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Sound deadening products
All,
I have the door panels off and was wondering if I should put any of the
sound deadening materials in. I realize that decreasing the sound is not
realistic and is not my goal but making the doors seem more solid when
closing is.
Anyone have any experience with this? Anyone product recommendations?
Dynamat, etc.
Also, how much does one need to install to create a more "solid" sound.
Lynn
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