Steve Sage wrote:
> Ron:
> That is a great Tiger fastener list in Tigers United but I just looked
> and unfortunately it covers everything except the hard top. If you can
> figure what size you used, I would appreciate it.
> Here's the flipper window trim workup. Don't read it unless you really
> want to because I go into maybe way too much detail. The trim diagram
> below will probably not be to proportion when it hits the list, but
> you'll get the idea of the triangle shape.
> B1
>
> X X X
> xX x
> B X x
> X x
> X x
> X X X X X X
>
> A A1
>
>
> First off, out of the bag from the supplier, the triangle rubber trim
> piece is too big. You have to cut some of it out. I made the cut on
> both windows at A1 above, in that lower front corner. I cut completely
> through the trim at that point. Then cut a little bit from the
> veritcal length going from B1 down to A1, but before you do, be very
> careful and only cut a little at a time, then press it on the window
> frame. If you cut too much, you can't put it back together, so
> carefully figure ahead of time how much you want to cut. That piece
> going from B1 down to A1 seems to be the main culprit. It's too long.
> The bottom piece (from A to A1) and top piece (from B up to B1) fit
> pretty closely. They are both close to the correct length. Depending
> on how concours you want to be, you could completely cut out the B1 to
> A1 piece. I may do that as I had the frames chromed and the B1 to A1
> rubber covers half of that pretty chrome. I don't see a functional
> reason for using that piece but I think the factory seal did use it.
> Here's trick #1 for making a good seal from the rubber trim to the
> flipper windows when you close them. In the back lower corner (A on
> the diagram) be sure to press the trim into that corner as flush as
> you can. Jam it back there. If you don't, the window will not seal at
> that point. Now pay attention to the "flange" of the rubber trim that
> sits on the hartop side rails. The idea of this part of the trim,
> which will be apparent when you look down at it, is so when you close
> the flipper window it will make contact with it and make a seal when
> closed. That part of the seal does not usually make a straight line
> from front to back. On my pieces, it was very "wavy". So, very
> carefully (don't slip and scratch the paint), stretch the rubber
> outward toward the open flipper window, wherever it's not in a
> straight line from front to back. . I used needle nose pliers and put
> a cloth underneath then to lessen the chance of scratching the paint.
> I did slip a couple of times and the cloth saved me. After stretching
> it out at the three or four needed points, and stretching it out a few
> times, the rubber stays stretched out and now makes a good seal when
> closing the window. I didn't have to do much stretching on the upper
> piece (B in the diagram) but you may have to as each trim piece will
> be a little different.
That's a lot of wording for what is actually a fairly simple job, so let
me know if you have any questions.
Steve Sage
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