List,
Wayne has a good idea with the chroming and power coating of the inside of
the canister. I'll just add what I did, and that was to send the canister
off and had it coated with Teflon from one of those piston coating
companies. That was 10 years ago and no problems so far.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wayne-MSN
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 5:28 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Girling Brake Booster
Thought I would toss in this suggestion regarding the Girling Brake Booster.
I have rebuilt numerous units over the years (probably close to 10). All
worked without incident. A problem I encountered in each unit I rebuilt
concerned the inside of the vacuum canister. As you all know, leaking
hydraulic seals in the booster cause brake fluid to get sucked into the
vacuum canister. Dot 3/4 fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water). Water
contaminated fluid is absorbed by the leather seal fitted to the large
piston in the vacuum canister. If the car is not driven frequently
(exercising the brakes) the water attacks the inside of the vacuum canister
especially on the bottom.
The resulting rust/pitting can be severe, which will introduce vacuum leaks
and further reduce the performance of already leaky the booster.
My solution has been to chrome plate the INSIDE of the vacuum canister
(actually the whole thing gets chromed), and convert to Silicon brake fluid,
which is non-hydroscopic. Typically, I then powder-coat the steel
canister/cover, and metal tube so all looks original.
Two of the units I rebuilt this way have been in service without any issues
for more than 10 years.
[18 months ago I rebuild a unit where I powder coated the inside/outside of
the canister rather than chrome plate it. Powder coat is very hard,
nonporous and "immune" to brake fluid. Seems to be working fine but don't
have enough time/miles on the rebuild to know how durable this solution will
be.]
Wayne
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