The cross member is held on with only 4 bolts into the frame rail.
Use an old
bolt and chase the threads.
The cross member is not balances well. If you
are alone than
a 2x6 across the ends will help balance it as you jace up the
front.
Install the bolts finger tight, leaving about 1/8 insh showing. You
will
notice that one of thes bolt will not install. It will want to cross
thread.
If you look in the bolt hole you can see the frame hole is off a
bit.
That's because the weight of the engine spreads the frame rails. The
answer isaimple. Use the 2x6 under the oil pan and jack the engine very
slightly taking up the engine weight. Dont dent the pan. My LAT pan
has a wide
flat surface.
Now all four holes lilne up and you can install the 4th bolt
easily.
once in, snug all four bolts. Find your torgue wrench and torgue
the
bolts. Remove jack and 2x6 It'll make a racket if you leave it.
Have fun.
I've done this alone in my garage in the winter. It was
NOT no sweat. Too
cold for sweat,
Dave
________________________________
From:
"mcdangerous@verizon.net" <mcdangerous@verizon.net>
To: s_ralsten@yahoo.com
Cc: CoolVT@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, June 25, 2010 1:56:41 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Hurst vs Original Shifter : Advice Needed
Hi there. I
would appreciate your advice. The installation of my new engine
is being held
up by a problem I had with my custom Hurst shifter. I may have
mentioned this
before, but one of the shift arms (reverse) was angled
incorrectly and the
tailshaft pedestal interfered with it. Ugh. So I had to
send it back to the
guy who built it for me to be redone. He tested it on a
Galaxie tailshaft,
which is a bit different than the Tiger's. Anyway, it's
taking more time than
I expected and am wondering whether anyone feels
strongly, one way or the
other, if a low miles original shifter is good
enough, or whether it's worth
the wait for the Hurst shifter. I expect to
have the Hurst shifter back maybe
late next week if all goes well. The car is
now up on stands with the
crossmember removed. All I have to do at this point
is disconnect the drive
shaft, the speedometer cable, the headers, and drop
the engine -- and lift the
new one in place. Easy-peasy. Getting the
crossmember lined back up looks
like it will be hellishly hard. I know there
must be some trick to it!!!
Thanks.
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