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Re: [Tigers] Dale A.# or tranny info

To: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dale A.# or tranny info
From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 13:13:10 -0700 (PDT)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <j95ca778aa7g6otmm47fylid.1369080194274@email.android.com>
If it's the same as what Dale did for my car (I seem to recall that Dan
Walters actually did the tranny work), it would have been a Ford Racing T-5
World Class tranny used with the AMC tailshaft housing conversion. 

(909) 799-2099 

 From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] Dale A.# or tranny info

Please ignore the older replies below.
The. AMC 5speed tyranny conversion Dale did. I need his number or the Year and
or if it's a Ford tranny that he used so I can try to find/have one when I
pull the broken one. Tia. TtT
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Tony McNulty
<bamcnulty@optonline.net> wrote:

>On electrical contact surfaces like
these you should use really fine 
>burnishing material -- like crocus cloth. 
This is what we used to use on 
>high current electrical contacts back in the
60's.  The idea is not to 
>"sand", but to"burnish".  You want to polish the
surface, not sand it.  Even 
>tooth paste (properly cleaned off afterward) is
a better burnishing abrasive 
>than even the "best" sandpaper -- although the
abrasive papers available 
>from 3M for polishing chisel and plane blades
(look up "scary sharp") would 
>be OK for polishing electrical contacts.
>Good advise it to use your ignition switch to activate a heavy duty relay to
>pass the high current (40 - 60 Amps) to the load, in this case, the starter
>or its solenoid.
>Tony McNulty
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 9:46 AM
>Subject: [Tigers] Ignition Switch
>>I pulled apart my ignition switch.  It was pretty easy.  As indicated, just
>> pry out two of the points on the can that are pressed in, hold towel to 
>> to stop bleeding from screwdriver slipping out of indentation point
>> into
>> the finger, put switch in vice, lightly clamping around nut,
and finish 
>> last
>> indentation point.
>> Put in key, press ice pick in
hole in side to release lock barrel.
>> Pull apart.
>> The switch is
much more beefy than I expected.  It has a strong spring and 
>> is
>> built
of large, thick metal for contacts.  I'm actually kind of surprised 
>> that
>> it has any issue.  But, I've cleaned it up and sanded all the contacts.  I
>> basically put a piece of fine sandpaper in between each of the three 
>> points and rotated the sandpaper back and forth, and rotated the
>> to
>> each of the three positions to get each one.  This probably
makes no sense
>> unless you have one open in your hands.  I was thinking of
dremel, but 
>> none of
>> my attachments are small enough to fit in there.
>> I'm also cleaning and sanding the tabs out the back that the wires attach
>> to.
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