You shouldn't need a relay for the starter solenoid. It is in fact, a relay
itself. For cleaning the inside of female connectors, use electrical contact
cleaner. You should be able to get it at most auto parts stores, Radio Shack,
or other similar electrical parts houses. It's a spray in a can like carb or
brake cleaner. One thing to keep in mind is that a digital ohmmeter uses very
low current to measure resistance. A single strand of an almost completely
broken wire will show less than an ohm of resistance. Once you apply power to
a low resistance load, like a solenoid, the resistance of the wire and
connections could increase to the point that the voltage drops at the starter
solenoid. All those bad connections or broken strands of wire become loads
themselves, taking away from the device you're trying to power. To find the
problem connection, disconnect the cable to the starter and the coil so the
car won't start, and then have someone hold the key in the "start" position.
Measure the voltage at each connection in the circuit to the solenoid and note
where the voltage drops.
> Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 16:39:10 -0700
> From: email@example.com
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Subject: [Tigers] Relays, ignition switch and starter solenoid
> A number of people have responded to my posts about adding relays to help
> out the ignition switch. First, keep in mind that this is my father's
> car. Rest assured that he has added relays for various systems.
> That said, my problem here was getting juice to the solenoid. It sure
> seems to me that the starter solenoid is in fact already a relay!!!!
> Right? Is anyone really running a relay off the starter switch to simply
> power the wire that triggers the starter solenoid?!
> One other point, in playing with an ohmeter and the switch, I get the sense
> the any weakness in contact was not the internals of the ignition switch
> itself (which is pretty beefy in there). But in the tabs off the back
> which seem to have some dark coloring that inhibits electricity. That's
> easy to clean - but per my previous post, I'm still not clear on how to
> clean the insides of the female connectors, which are presumably as in need
> of cleaning as the male tabs.
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