Hi Owain,
I found your regulator here:
http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
It says
Black D-
Yellow D+
White B+
Case DF
Red B+
Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
This article
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring
as well as instructions on the last page that reference the color codes
on the new regulator.
It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
stock-looking generator case, right?
The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off
and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush
terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal was
wired to your custom installation.
The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original Denso
part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins are in
the external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try to get it
so that your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with external fins or
at least to something that has a good thermal connection to the external
case. Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to the
car's electrical system.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire replacement
guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your bench, might
be enough to get it going again.
Cheers,
Theo
On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
> have the expertise to help with. I have an alternator that the internal
> regulator has failed on. Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
> easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
> regulator would not fail again.
>
> The regulator used inside has 4 wires. One to the live wire, one to the
> charge light and two to the diode bridge. I happen to have a four wire
> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
> really know how it should be wired up. The link below shows a pic of the
> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
> alternator.
>
> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I could
> use the replacement?
>
> Many thanks indeed.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
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