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Re: Brake Bleeding

To: trsix74@home.com (Robert L. Gannon)
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:19:55 -0800 (PST)
Robert---I sort of recall your plight with the 'soft' brake pedal a year
or so ago. A that time I was testing out a few possibilties for this,
other than the usual air-in-the-line(s) reasons.  I'm sure enough of my
findings to write a full report on it, and with 6 PACK Newsletter
editor's OK on this, it will appear in the next issue, under the heading
of "Brake Pedal Drop". 
That's it for the commercial.. 

                   I don't believe in the  board-on-the-pedal-overnight
remedy. There is no provision for any air getting out when doing this.
You're 'sealed' at both ends of the system.     

If there's any 'hole' that air can be pulled through back into a
hydraulic hose, line, or cylinder enough to cause cavitation, then this
hole must also be large enough to leak fluid, given the tremendous
differences between hydraulic and atmospheric pressures. (There will be
a puddle)

Here's the short version on my findings:
Try/check one or both of the following, as either will cause brake pedal
knock-back. 1) Loose wheel bearings.      
2) Tapered brake pads.       

If you have No.1 above, it means that the first stroke of the pedal does
nothing more than move the pads out to the rotors. (It is REALLY
pronounced after turning a corner) With the pads now in position, the
second stroke of the pedal will then start their braking action.       

Tapered pads will always be 'soft'. Again, due to knock-back. The fix?
New pads, or...

Did I mention the Spring, 2001 edition of 6 -PACK?

Dick Taylor

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