For the past two years I had a problem with my clutch that I could not
resolve. My clutch pedal seemed to be binding. When I would release the
clutch, the pedal would travel a short distance then seem to stick or bind,
then jump. Trying the engage the clutch from a stop was tricky at best. After
replacing all the hydraulics and taking the clutch out twice, it turns out to
be a loose pilot bushing in the flywheel.
Last time out, I took a nail punch and tapped around the edge of the pilot
bushing securing it in the flywheel. The problems have all disappeared. The
next time you have your transmission out, take the flywheel off and see if
your pilot bushing moves freely. If it does then this could be the source of
one of your problems.
Stuart
Belleville, Ontario
76 Carmine TR6
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Message-ID: <000701c0ec6a$48414720$0ea1dcd8@jaysnavely>
From: "Jay Snavely" <jays@paonline.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Continued clutch woes
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 16:17:00 -0400
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Reply-To: "Jay Snavely" <jays@paonline.com>
I still have not been able to diagnose the reason the clutch on my 74 TR6 is
not disengaging properly. It seemed to have too much free play, so I got an
adjustable rod from a TR3/4 and got another 1/4" length out of the rod.
Now, the clutch pedal only moves about 1/2" before the clutch shaft starts
rotating, but this is not enough to disengage completely when the car gets
hot. The slave cylinder has about 3/4" of travel. Is this correct?
The only other thing I can think of is bleeding the cylinder again. The
nipple is located at about 10:00. I am thinking maybe there is still some
air trapped in the cylinder because of this. Should I remove the cylinder
and hold it so the nipple is at 12:00 and bleed it again?
There are no external leaks in the system. The other thing I am wondering
if the clutch could have rotated on the cross shaft? The clutch pedal
movement doesn't seem as silky smooth as it should.
Thanks for the help.
Jay
74TR6
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