I've got a similar problem that recently started on my car. My
electrics sre all hay wire and I need a new harness completely, but
here's what's happening.
I drove my car for the first time this season in late May. Drove it
from Michigan to PA. About halfway to PA, the o/d packed up. It did
this last year too. Definitely electrical. It works for a while, then
drops out. Then I turn it off and I can turn it back on a while later
and it works for a while and then kicks out again. Sounds to me like
an overheating/malfunctioning solenoid (A type overdrive) or
overheating wiring somewhere. When in an overheated condition, I hear
the relay clicking, but the solenoid doesn't.
Around the same time, the temp gauge started going crazy. I thought
maybe it was due to higher revs since the o/d was out. But as I came
in to stop for gas at a rest stop, the gauge quickly went from about
1/2 to over 3/4, in just a minute or so. Gas gauge stayed accurate, so
it's not a busted voltage stabilizer. I felt the radiator hoses, and
they were not abnormally hot.
So now it looks like I too have some problem causing my temp gauge to
go haywire. It works fine for a little while, but after about half an
hour it creeps up to 3/4. My car usually runs at 1/4, 1/2 when it's
real hot. I haven't been able to isolate my problem as well as Kerry
who has tracked it down to headlights, but something ain't right.
Thoughts?
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Riveting Images <kerry@riveting-images.com> wrote:
> Let em begin by saying I have Dan Master's book and it is excellant
> but this
> problem escapes me - at least so far.
>
> Last Fall on my way home from the Trials my volt gauge showed low
> voltage
> (12) at the same time my temperature gauge - usually sitting squarely
> at
> mid-scale - climbed to the 3/4 mark.
>
> For a few weeks I beleived I had two different problems and replaced
> my
> alternator (GM) after a NAPA guy told me my regulator was bad. No
> change was
> noted with the new alternator.
>
> Then one day I realized my volt gauge dropped and my temp gauge
> climbed when
> I turned the headlights on. Turning them off would restore normal
> voltage
> and a normal temperature reading. My next step was to put a Fluke
> temperature sensor on my thermostat housing and compare measured
> temps with
> indicated temps. What I found was my temp stayed steady at 170
> degrees even
> as my dash gauge showed it climbing over the 3/4 mark.
>
> OK, now I know my cooling system is fine, so what's causing the high
> temp
> reading when my headlights are on?
>
> Fast forward to this Spring. My headlight wiring goes up in smoke and
> I
> replace the following components with brand new ones:
> Main wiring harness
> headlamp switch
> positive battery cable
> headlamp pigtails
>
> For now I don't have a high/low beam switch installed due to cost, so
> I have
> the low beams wired to be on when the headlights are on, and am
> forgoing
> high-beams at this time.
>
> I figured with all this "new stuff" my problem, whatever it was,
> should be
> gone, and it was, at first, but now it's back to its old tricks. With
> no
> lights on at all I see 14 volts and "normal" temperature readings.
> With just
> the running lights on I see a volt gauge indication of 13 to 13.5v
> and a
> temp reading of slightly over half. With headlights on I see volts
> down to
> 12 (sometimes rising back up to 12.5) and a temp reading of 3/4.
> To make matters slightly more confusing, the temp gauge sometimes
> reads
> correctly at half scale if I'm on a longer drive (a few miles vs. a
> few
> blocks).
>
> More things you should know:
> My car has PO installed Halogen headlights - too much for the
> electrical
> system?
> My front running lights and side marker lights are the only "old"
> wiring in
> the headlight system and I've yet to disconnect all four lights and
> see if
> the problem still exists.
> I just had my battery and charging system checked at Batteries Plus
> and they
> checked out OK
> My negative battery cable is not new, but is clean and in good repair
> I can turn on all electrical goodies even when the volt gauge shows
> 12 volts
> and still get good performance from the windshield wipers (a good
> visual
> source of alternator output).
> I've run some of Dan Master's test with my multi-meter and haven't
> found
> anything real concrete. My volt gauge seems accurate.
>
> Now, some specific questions:
> Ground wires:
> What does the wire that goes to the steering box ground?
> What does the double ground wire (by the positive battery cable) that
> goes
> to a metal tab on the body ground?
> Why is my car doing this to me? I've lavished it with gifts the last
> three
> years.
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> I'm going to try to do some detailed troubleshooting this weekend and
> any
> hints, tips, suggestions or offers to purchase are welcome! I'm
> getting
> tired of "troubleshhoting" drives and just want to drive the car and
> enjoy
> the sights and sounds - not concentrate on what the heck is going on
> in my
> electrical system
>
> Thanks for listening
>
> Kerry Fores
> Editor
> 6-PACK
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