Walt---Lots of ideas, and too many to list. I'll try to break down only
the most common causes into two categories, fuel and spark. (We'll
forget oxygen, for the moment.
Fuel--Start at the tank and work forward. Disconnect the line going into
the fuel pump. Fuel should pour out until it reaches a level that is
higher than what's in the tank. It takes very little fuel to keep an
engine running with no load on it. Work your way forward, clear to the
carbs. If a goodly amount of fuel comes out of the line just before the
first carburetor, either by priming the pump or running the engine, stop
there. While possible, it's unlikely that both carbs are plugged up.
(The engine will run fair with only one)
Spark--Attach a test light to the 12V wire that connects to the + side
of the coil. It should glow with the key on. Crank the engine. The light
should stay on at all times. Wiggle the wire.
Pull a spark plug wire and expose the metal clip. Hold it about 1/8 inch
from the valve cover as you crank the engine. It should produce a
rhythmic spark.
The points will fire the engine even if far out of adjustment, as you
noted. File off any glaze, or dab the faces with a Q-tip and lacquer
thinner. Set 'em anyhow to specs. Set/check the timing, if you get the
engine to idle.
All of the above can be done without buying possibly unnecessary new
parts.
Hopefully, you'll uncover the cause of the engine dying on the road.
Look for the obvious, first. Please let us know how you come out!
Dick T.
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