Hello Listers,
Thought I would share the resolution to a lingering annoyance. Since I have
owned my 72 TR6, I have always had what the group would refer to as cowl
shake. You know the steering wheel shake at 50-60 mph, or whatever your range
is. This in spite of a complete front suspension rebuild, new redlines, new
(to me) tested stock wheels, balancing, re-balancing. front end alignments and
on and on and on. All to no avail. I was told just to live with it. To make a
long story short and to spare you of all the boring details, I finally
resolved the problem to complete perfection, no shimmy, shake or wobble.
Here's is how I solved my problem. I took my runout gauge and took three
readings in the following spots. First was on the rotor. Reading .003"-.004".
Second reading at the furthest point on the hub-right where the grease cap
goes in. Reading .003"-.004". Both I consider within spec. The third reading I
took off the stud plate on the hub. Reading .092"-.095". Whalla!!! All this
after burning up a set of wheel bearing in 6000 miles. A new hub cost $289
from Moss. A friend with a LBC shop had a used one for $10. After checking it
for runout, the reading was .030". I chucked it in my lathe and trued it up.
Put it on the car and problem is completely gone. If you do not have a runout
gauge use a good steel straight edge and take readings across the hub plate by
checking for rock. I truly believe that 50% of you will resolve your wheel
shake by correcting this problem. This is an area that I found is rarely
checked. Most experienced mechanics cannot figure how the hub could be bent.
My car had no accident since I bought it.It has gotten progressively worst I
believe it was related to heat transference from overheating brakes and
warping of this portion of the hub. Regardless, this is something anyone with
this problem should check. If anyone finds this helps them, please post it to
the list.
Hope this helps and sorry for the long post.
Alex Manzo
72TR6
59 TR3A
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