Out of interest, I put my last engine together using no gasket goos of any
type, except a little around the cork sump gaskets over the main bearing
caps. The reason being, as the engine is in a competition car, quick engine
disassembly may be required, and I found the whole process of cleaning up
the surfaces of broken gasket when parting joints too time consuming. Also
it meant the original gasket would be certainly destroyed.
So while assembling, I cleaned each face thoroughly, and checked all
surfaces for flatness, and corrected where there were problems.... Every
bolt was torqued evenly and tight, but not so tight as to warp the faces.
The result has been a leaky engine. The worst was at the rear of the side
plate (push rod) cover. There was A LOT of oil escaping here. It was due to
a very slught mismatch where the head met the block. So to rectify, I filed
the edge of the head down, and, out of desparation, cemented the new gasket
in place. All fine. The other leaks are all minor, i.e. a few coin size
puddles after sitting for a night, but there must be about 4 of them.... the
sump, the front timing cover, and a couple of others I can't locate. They
are more annoying than anything. Just lucky my shed has a dirt floor!
> firstname.lastname@example.org writes:
> >How many gaskets can be changed on this car without
> >removing the engine?
> You can change all gaskets without removing the engine. You may need to
> unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine to get to the pan gasket,
> however. But then you may not, I've forgotten.