Rob
I have done several of these over the years. Lisle brand tools makes a brake
tool that looks like a 1 ½ " cube witha different style tips on each side of
the cube. You attach to a 3/8" ratchet handle. It cost about $10 if I remember
correctly. Open bleeder as well as remove hydraulic line for max free flow and
put pressure in as you turn the piston. If the fluid is extremely gunky the
friction will be even higher. Good luck!! If I can do it , anyone can!!!
Bill Schmidt cs rx7 kc reg
>>> Rob Foley <RobertJFoley@compuserve.com> 10/17 8:53 PM >>>
Obligatory autox content: this car was autocrossed about 8 times in 1995.
I was doing brake pads all around on my daily driver Jetta GLX, fronts went
no problem, rears OTOH......
No big deal to disconnect parking brake cable, get caliper off, see two
little indents on the piston to grab to rotate it back in, OK, I've got a
pair of blunt end nose pliers that fit in perfectly, and start turning, and
turning, and turning, and piston isn't going anywhere. In fact, it has
traveled out about 1/8" while attempting to screw it back, so I can't even
put things back together. Anyone got any ideas what went wrong, or am I
just dumb? Reverse threads on the internal screw? I dunno......but it
don't seem to be the same as on a Honda.
FWIW, the car is a 95 with about 60,000 miles, had about 3/16's left on the
old pads, and has always turned its brake fluid almost black immediately
even after a full flush ever since it was new.
TIA
Rob Foley
RobertJFoley@compuserve.com
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