At 11:32 PM 5/17/98 -0500, Olson, Scott wrote:
>I was under my 74 this weekend spilling gas all over myself when I
>noticed my rust problem. The underside of the car has a classic coat of
>rust although most areas of the car don't appear to have any major rust
>problems. This however, does not apply to the steel skidplates? Under
>the floorpan where the seats bolt in. I have lost almost 1/4th of the
>metal and I can pulll large flakes and chunks off. What are these?
>How are they attached, and can they be replaced. Can you purchase them
>or do they need to be fabricated.
Scott, I had all that stuff fabricated. I also have all the drawings
for what I had made. They were also in a Brickline article a year or
so ago. If you need the drawings, let me know. I don't think we've
put them on the web page yet. BTW, it wasn't very expensive. So far
the most expensive part was having the sill plates made. They cost about
$400 for a pair.
>
>If I have to fabricate something, I was thinking that the chrome steel
>skidplate material (with the diamond bumps used on semi-s) would look
>pretty fancy underneath the car. Given the amount of time I spend under
>the car, it might be enjoyable =)
That's your call. However, I had them made out of plain sheet steel.
When I got them back from the fabricators, I sandblasted them and paint
them with POR-15!
>For those of us that aren't that good at paying attention. I should:
>1)Remove the rust with a wire brush (can I use a rotary drill one?
Yes!! Try that and see how much metal is left. There wasn't any left
on mine. I also use a 4" 10,000rpm grinder with a knotted wire wheel.
It works a lot better than the drill!
>2) Apply POV-something
Try POR-15 or equivilant.
>3)Then do I paint it or does the POV whatever take car of that
The POR-15 will take care of it. However, it is not UV proof and will
change colors if exposed. You can top coat it with any paint for the
color coat if you want.
>4)I want to apply a thick coat of undercoating (my friend used on
> his 65 Mustang) that will help reduce water contact, seal the seams
> and provide some vibration and noise dampening.
Not necessary!!!! The fiberglass will NOT rust! However, you should
paint ALL the metal, including the chassis with something. I painted
the inside and outside of my chassis and birdcage with POR-15.
>Also for the interior of the car, I have removed 3/4th of the carpet
>(minus the part underneath the seats that haven't been removed yeat for
>fear of the unknown). When I remove all the carpet and hairy brown
>stuff, what should I do to prepare the interior of the car before
>laying down the aluminized rubber stuff (reccomended by Tanner from J.C.
>Whitney) ? I will then replace the carpet and breath deeply. The rest
>of the car can wait as long as I prevent any further rusting =)
You don't have to do anything. Simply gut the interior, pull the dash,
heater & AC units etc. The more you remove the easier it will be. Cut
the insulation to fit, lay it in place. You might want to glue it in
place with some spray trim adheasive. Also, before you lay the insulation
plug all the holes from the inside of the car with plumbers putty. Put
it around every firewall penetration.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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