Happy to hear you are on the road. But I think you went about it the
difficult way. I would have pulled a spark plug wire off and held it to the
block to see if there was any fire there. Then in your case there being
none, I would have pulled the cap, to see if there was any in the points.
If there was none or if there was a converted electronic ignoition I then
would have pulled the coil tower wire from the cap, and held that to a
ground with insulated pliers, and with no spark there. I would have checked
the wires coming into the coil, and finding there live wire input would have
determined the coil was the culprit. but I guess the way you did it was
best for you. But I'm sure not everyone has test equipment that they can
readily use for this purpose. The way I trace it there is no need for test
equipment unless there is still some voltage coming in, but not enough to
run the car. It's been a long time, but I seem to remember for a charging
system to work right, it had to produce 14.7 volts from the regulator to
keep the battery charged. Am I wrong ?
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Harvey <stevenh@execpc.com>
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, September 24, 1999 5:02 PM
Subject: Fuel, Spark, Air
>Hello All:
>COIL!COIL!COIL! Started at the Alternator and had 13 volts. Ballast had
>13 volts. Coil had 13 volts at terminal. No sparkie at other end. Robbed
>the coil off of the 1600. Fired right up boys! It's amazing how another
>problem can enter into the current problem (fuel) and really foul things
>up. I'm taking her for a short ride right now. If I don't report back by
>Saturday, Milwaukee county requires psychiatric patients to stay 48
>hours so we'll talk Monday!
>Steve Harvey
>68 2000 solex (new coil)
>70 1600 rotary (no coil)
>
>
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