Hi Ken,
You might as well just replace it.
I took mine apart and resealed it, but it was a tough job and in hindsight,
probably wasn't worth the effort. The problem is to reseal it without
increasing the difficulty of operating the valve. Seal it too tight and
then the valve won't open or close properly.
You could also try a chemical fix. But those things will coat all inside
coolant passageways of the engine and radiator, and that might not be so
good long-term for your car. The way to do it is to use another car. Insert
the heater valve into a hose path of another car, add the chemical sealer,
and after you're done then swap the valve back into your roadster.
I had a severe leak on my old van a month ago, it was losing coolant every
day from the back of the engine. I stay away from thick gunk like Barsleak
as that will clog up your radiator. I bought a chemical sealer that has
copper powder suspended in a clear agent. Flushed the radiator, added the
sealer and ran the engine for half an hour. Drained it and let it sit
overnight with the radiator cap off, then refilled it. The van runs fine
now without any leaking, and the radiator core looks fine (no clogging). I
would still think twice before using this on a roadster. Your roadster
deserves a real fix.
Fred
BADROC
'66 2L
__________________________ Reply Separator __________________________
>Subject: 67 Heater valve
>Author: PLETCH5@aol.com
>Date: 8/22/2000 10:53 AM
>
>I got my 67 1600 heater valve to free-up and work but now the problem is
>that there is a slow drip from it. Is this something that can be
>resealed or do you replace the whole unit?
>
>Ken
>DATSTER
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