>Anyone familiar with this type of brake fluid?
>
>http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=14755
>
>Any ad/disadvantages in using this in our roadsters?
Brad,
The following is extracted from a post by Tom Walters a while ago. AFAIK,
nothing new has been introduced that would change these recommendations.
Both the Ford and the Castrol fluids are compatible with all of the old
components and seals and readily available. Even with a synthetic based
fluid I'd say thoroughly flush new fluid through the system at least
every couple of years, preferably once a year.
FWIW, Ron
_________________________________________
Tom said:
Usually the only time I'd recommend a "alcohol brake flush" is when
you change from the Castrol GT/LMA to a Silicone Brake Fluid. If
you are going to a silicone brake fluid... it is best to rebuild
ALL THE cylinders! Compressed air to blow out the lines (use a line
filter on your air nozzle), to remove all old traces of the brake
fluid, and install new seals.
Silicone Brake fluid is fine for a "show car" that is rarely driven.
Darn hard to get air bubbles out of the system, and if the fluid is
overheated (long downhill mountain stretch) it makes for a very spongy
pedal feel.
Personally I find the Castrol GT/LMA still to be the best fluid
for all around use on a roadster. Still it is a good idea to flush
it through the system annually (Actually I get around to doing it
every two years). Take the old fluid into the hazardous recycling
center.
For "heavy autox & road racing" the Ford Brake Fluid will withstand
a higher heat, but needs to be bleed/flushed almost every race. Not
a problem for a racer, but when it picks up moisture with age it
will be worse than the GT/LMA.
If you notice the brake fluid turning black in a few weeks of being
flushed out. It is RUBBER particles in the brake fluid. Usually the
hoses are the culprit. Replace the hoses and the fluid should remain
clean.
I posted a note about flushing/bleeding the brakes a few weeks ago.
Remember I let air into the system (changed the front hoses), and
did NOT bleed the master cylinder. Left a friend with some lousy
brakes! The pads I used never "felt right", so I went back to
Nissan OEM (Hitachi mfg) pads on her 280ZX. Did just fine after that.
Oh, to "bed in" new pads I like getting up to 70 mph and HITTING THE
BRAKES hard. Down to 20mph, but do not lock the brakes up. Drive
a little more (let the pads cool down), and repeat that hard brake.
About 10 series of BRAKE HARD, let it cool. After that 20 minute drive,
park your roadster with the front wheels cranked to one side. Reach
in and lightly touch the brake caliper. You'll discover how hot brakes
get.
_______________________________________
Ronnie Day
ronday@home.com
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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