Marc, absolutely right! Always glad to see you getting accurate information
to the list to prevent problems down the road.
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Sayer" <marcsayer@home.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: 2L Head gasket
> "Patrick P. Castronovo" wrote:
>
> > 2- Torque the head in the right sequence.
> > 3- Torque in three stages. First, put all the bolts in down to the head
to
> > just touching the head. Then moving the bolts 1/4 turn on each of them
in
> > sequence with just finger pressure on the ratchet, going around until
you
> > can no longer use finger pressure, then Torque all the bolts 45 lbs.-
then
> > 55 lbs. - then final 65. lbs It is VERY Important that you compress the
> > metal gasket around each cylinder slowly and evenly. Then after 500
miles
> > of driving, retorque to 65 again. Then again after 500 miles, if the
Torque
> > Wrench moves tightening it more, then try again after another 500 miles.
> > Chances are that you will not have to do it a third time, but check it
> > anyway.
> > Then do not forget to use Distilled Water in the radiator, with a 50%
> > solution of a good Antifreeze(Prestone)
> > Do not run the engine with Just water, as the Anti freeze Lubricates the
> > Water Pump. Then, Good Luck also. Pat
>
>
> Just a few things. First on retorques; the torque required to start a bolt
or
> nut moving is much higher than that required to keep it moving. So if you
torque
> a bolt to 50 lb/ft, stop, and then try to simply tighten it a little bit
more,
> to say 55 lb/ft, you may find that the bolt will not turn any further and
will
> appear to be torqued to 55 lb/ft even though you only torqued it to 50
lb/ft.
> This is especially true if the bolt sat for some time and/or went through
> several heat cycles. If you want to retorque a fastener, you really need
to
> loosen it and retorque it. If you simply try to tighten a fastener again
to the
> same spec it was already tightened to, without loosening it first, it will
not
> move even if it has "loosened" up, and the actual torque is 5-10 lb/ft
less than
> what you have your torque wrench set to. Second, while the idea of an
additive
> in the coolant to "lubricate" the water pump is often used to aid sales,
and
> while most folks seem to buy into the concept, I believe it lacks a good
> scientific basis. The bearings do not run in the coolant, there are no
parts of
> the water pump that run in the coolant that are subject to wear or that
need
> lubrication. The bearings are really the only wear parts in a pump and
they are
> sealed well away from the coolant and lubricated separately. So just what
does
> the antifreeze or additive lubricate, Seals? They are lubed with the
bearings or
> are self lubricated. While they do ride in the coolant on the one side, I
have
> never seen anywhere any indication that they need special lubricants in
the
> coolant. OTOH the one thing that all cars, and especially those with
bi-metal
> engines, need in the coolant is some sort of corrosion protection.
Antifreeze
> will give you a certain level of this. Even better is water with a good
> corrosion inhibitor additive, or water and RedLine WaterWetter, which is
also an
> excellent corrosion inhibitor.
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