With all due respect to those of you who have looked into this at length, my
question would be, Have you actually run these synchros and compared them side
side with other "good" ones in any kind of scientific manner? The reason I ask
that, frankly, there is a lot of bullshit out there about what works and what
not. For example: "Never remove your cam towers unless you can line-bore the
journals". Total bullshit, but it's written in the manual. "Cam geometry is a
big deal in these U20 engines". Again, bullshit. As long as the cam is wiping
on the rocker pad and not running off the pad, it makes ABSOLUTELY NO
the real world, as proven by actual measurements of lift and cam timing using a
indicator. Just because something is written down in a "reputable" book, or
says it without really testing it, does not make it so. I don't mean to
anyone, especially if they have actually tested what they are talking about and
really know what they are doing. But I did not hear much in the way of
acknowledgment in regards to Allen Blackmon's effort to provide info to the
even if there are concerns or disagreements or additional information that
be investigated. Hanging out in my friend Steve's shop, I have heard all kinds
crap spouted off by "reputable" shops charging thousands of dollars for their
and time and again he has shown me that they were full of crap and did not know
they were doing. His heads and engines consistently dyno out higher and are
reliable, so the proof is there. Again, this is not to imply that anyone who
responded fits that description in any way... I just want more than an opinion:
want info based on actual use and scientific method. Right now, I can imagine
Allen is freaking out that he has spent some good money on rebuilding his
and is thinking that it is gonna run like crap and not shift. I know I would
67 2000 whose cam towers have been off many times and runs a reground cam that
not have perfect geometry... wanna race?
> I have tried these kits in the past and unfortunately the quality is suspect
> times and the kit you describe is only for the later brass box or the Zcar 5
> speed and Marc is correct we saw so many different quality
> Syncros that we started to scrutinize them very carefully and of course about
> in 20-30 trans we do is actually a brass box we are still careful to steer
> of those kits. Just because they are relatively inexpensive to start with what
> is your time worth to pull the the motor and trans again to save a couple of
> bucks. I do not even use them in the race cars where this stuff comes apart
> every few events to be checked.
> Just a word of warning from a guy with about 30 of the unusable brass scyncros
> hanging on the wall at any given moment.
> Allen Blackmon wrote:
> > To List,
> > I received quite a few emails a couple of weeks or so ago, when I discussed
> > my tranny rebuild and the easily and cheaply available parts.
> > I just picked up my rebuilt 5 speed tranny. Total cost, including parts,
> > labor and the ugly 8.6% sales tax, was $439. Labor $210. Now to the parts,
> > as promised. What you need is the 240z rebuild kit. Part number (Nachi,
> > which I'm told is the supplier to Nissan) BK 105A WS. That stands for "BK"
> > bearing kit, "105 A", not sure, "WS" with synchros. Cost was $162.85.
> > Since ours needs a few more bearings not in the kit, here they are. Need
> > (2) of Nachi 6205N at $11.75 each, and (1) Nachi 6304 at $10.80. You can go
> > to any bearing store/supplier and they will have all the bearings at
> > probably cheaper prices that above. This will rebuild your tranny with all
> > the bearings and all the synchros (except 5th gear, which rarely needs
> > replacing). Since mine is a later car, I did not have the 5th gear neutral
> > problem. Those of you that have that will still need you 5th gear fixed.
> > Vendors have those, I think. Adnd this kit also does not come with gaskets.
> > And if I really want to get organized, maybe when I get out of my work
> > clothes, I'll look up the part numbers on the bearings and give those out as
> > well. Per my mechanic, all the bearngs are standard and can be obtained
> > cheaply. I live in a small town (40,000) and I've got a bearing supplier
> > here that has any of these bearings in stock cheap, so they are out there.
> > So, it's up to you now to decide if it's a good deal. I think it is. If it
> > turns out to be a good deal, I leave it to someone else to solve our 2000
> > timing set problem. I'm working on it, but haven't solved it yet.
> > Allen
> > 1970 2000
> > _________________________________________________________________
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> Les Cannaday
> Classic Datsun Motorsports
> 345 Olive Ave
> Vista, CA 92083
> (760) 940-6365
> (208) 988-5507(fax)
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