POR actually stands for Paint Over Rust.
If you read their literature whether on line or in their catalog, they tell you
that you do not need to remove the rust for it to seal and do its job. Being a
"nut" about rust, I preferred to sandblast, grind, and otherwise get rid of as
much as I could before applying the POR. When I asked them about this, they
mentioned that as long as the surface of the metal isn't SMOOTH, or shiny the
POR
would adhere properly. Although the product WILL set on smooth surfaces it
won't
bond to the surface and you can easily remove it.
They also sell two other products which I was very pleased with, Marine Clean
and
Metal Prep.
Marine Clean is an excellent degreaser and cleaner. Use gloves as it will leave
your hands without ANY oils in the skin. Not only does it feel weird, you end
up
going through a tube of moisturizer afterwards which can tee off She Who Must Be
Obeyed.
Metal Prep is a mild Acid. I don't recall what type, but it will leave a
surface
properly etched to accept the POR excellently, while giving it a type of rust
prevention treatment.. I heartily recommend it's use as it makes a huge
difference when applying the first coat. I say this because I painted various
different surfaces. The ones that had been D/A'd but not Metal Prepped
accepted
the POR but sometimes I would get a bit of fisheye. The sand-blasted areas
(again no Metal Prep) seemed to accept it better but again there were a few
areas
where you could see the surface film pull away. On those that I had treated
with
Metal Prep, the POR flowed evenly, smoothly and I got an excellent first coat.
I
recoated most items according to the instructions (Wait until the prior coat is
"finger-drag" sticky.), and even then could tell that the areas that had given
me
trouble on the first coat were still difficult to cover. In my opinion it
should
be considered a requirement.
The ONLY drawback I found to those two products is that you must rinse the
surface completely after using them. This can lead to delays in waiting for the
car (in my case the complete interior) to completely dry before going onto the
next step. POR specifically states that the surface needs to be bone dry for it
to not react immediately with the moisture.
POR uses both the moisture in the air as well as what is trapped in the rust to
set. If you try painting on a very humid day (I'm in the Pacific Northwest) you
can actually watch the POR "boil" from the chemical reaction. This is NOT a
good
thing as the bubbles CAN set and then you'll have a porous paint job which
defeats the whole purpose for using POR.
Hope this helps.
Enrique Scanlon
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