Ian,
I would run the wire from the new fuse box to the large post on the
starter. This would make things more solid, especially when the engine is
not running. I would also use a wire larger than 10 Ga. 10 Ga wire is
rated for 30 Amps, which may be a lower rating than what will be drawn
through it with everything running. I would use at least 8 Ga, and
probably 6 Ga wire.
Running relays as indicated should be fine.
One thing I would try is to connet the headlight relays so that they will
turn off when the key is turned off, even with the headlight switch on. I
can't count how many times I forgot and had a dead battery when I got back
to the car. (I leave my headlights on whenever I drive, night or day).
I have no problem with the engine fan running when the engine is off. I
put an electric fan on an old 244 Volvo and it cycled on and aff a couple
of times after the engine was turned off. Never had a problem with the
battery running down.
Peace, Pat
- Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor/Future planner, CS Dept,
University of Texas, 1 University Station C0500,Austin, Tx. 78712-1188 USA
voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
On Thu, 21 Aug 2003, Ian Miller wrote:
> Ok, Just a quick check to be sure that what I want to do is cosher, before I
> attempt it tonight (what a great Idea).
>
> I have the GM 60 amp alternator on my 66. I want to run some Hella H4
> headlights, a new higher power electric fan, and fog lights. Currently I
> have a 10ga wire running from the alternator to the starter, a fuseable link
> in the existing fuse box feed wire (thick white one), and a trunck mounted
> battery. So I'm not pulling all this extra current through my existing fuse
> box I am going to install a secondary 4 fuse box on the passenger side
> firewall.
>
> I'm going to attach a lead from the back of the alternator to the new fuse
> box (10ga). Then I will use each of the 4 fuses to run seperate functions.
>
> Fuse 1______________Left high and low beam
> Fuse 2______________Right High and low beam
> Fuse 3______________Driving lights
> Fuse 4______________Fan
>
> Now I also picked up a few relays at the local pepboys. From fuse 1 I will
> run 2 wires, one to the left high beam relay, and one to the left low beam
> realy. Both relays will be switched using the existing headlight wires. I
> believe all the relays are normally open, and would then pull shut when the
> switch was thrown. I will repeat the same for the right side from fuse 2.
> For the driving lights I will use one relay to operate both sides. And the
> fan will not have a relay for now since I only have 5 and it has a
> thermostatic switch on it.
>
> The only problem I see with this is my fan will run after I shut down the
> car. I don't really have a solution for this since I want to keep all of
> the power for this fusebox seperate from the rest of the wiring harness. I
> guess I could install a relay that would close on a switched 12v source
> fromt he ignition.
>
> So what do you think of my plans? What do our headlight connectors look
> like will I need H4 connectors to put in my new lights? If not are the
> existing light harnesses enough to run the new bulbs? Looking forward to
> Watkins Glen, and still looking for lodging.
>
> Thanks for the advice.
> Ian Miller
> 66 1600 stroker
> 67 1600 rats nest
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|